my rear is absolutely crap jhp had it in a few weeks ago for the upgrade and 1500 miles later is useless again but my mille was originally the same and by moving the m/cylinder to rearsets totally cured it but on the multi this would be hard as we cant fit them. The rearsets i had on my mille were from a company called rcd who do all the engineering for racefit and i am going to call him to see if he can do a modification to move the m/cylinder away from the engine. This may need a custom brake pedal and reservoir mounting but would be worth it i think as i use a lot of rear brake and it just feels wrong not to use it now.
Same here hemi, I used to trail back brake into bends when two up as it makes the bike sit down, just like having a bit more engine braking. Rarely do it on the Mts unless we are in somewhere like the alps. a lot if us who ride two up use back brake as its more comfortable for the baggage - err - pillion
I fitted the bleed nipple banjos to the ABS block on both front and rear circuits yesterday and then bled them. Some air came out as I expected as the replaced banjos would be full of air anyway. It made no difference whatsoever to the front, which I've always been happy with anyway. I'd say the rear has marginally improved but is still crap. It was worth trying for less than a tenner though.
Today I've (well- me and Gary) have done exactly the same as Derek with exactly the same result , working but still a bit spongy . But not being one to give up Gary removed the caliper and held it above the abs unit and bled the system again . and got a load more air out ! Some adjustment to pedal height and now my rear brake is fine. We are both wondering which bright spark at Ducati thought that putting the caliper bleed valve at the bottom of the caliper was a good idea.
Same as above to report, I'm afraid. Got the bleed nipples today, #fitted them and bled both elements. As reported above, lots of bubbles, particularly from rear circuit, but I've just been for a test run and, although the pedal's firmer, there's no difference in retardation. I can't get the ABS to kick in using the rear brake, although the front is very good - either ABS or lifting the rear wheel, depending on setting. Still, worth a try and hopefully it'll benefit somebody,
Is anyone in a position to recommend a specific set of rear pads, based on personal experience, that have helped? I've sorted the air, have a nice firm pedal, but the bike still doesn't really slow down by much at all when I use the brake at much over 15 mph. I can tell it is doing something, and it will stop the bike when I coast up to junctions, so it's a lot better - but still not much use. Interestingly, when I screwed up the adjustment of the bar into the master cylinder I had a rear brake that would stop the bike within a few feet of the clutch being pulled in (but it was accompanied by a very hot rear disk and a nasty smell of burning pads, so not much use as a long term solution). :tongue: So I know that the system is capable of exerting enough force to stop the bike, and I suspect the next logical step is to change the pad material. hence my question. Can someone who's improved their brakes with different pads give me a link to the exact set that they bought please?
Just tried this mod, but rear brake banjo fouls the underside of the seat so had to remove it. Are you using some low profile bleed nipple configuration ? Mike 1200S touring
Mikele, No sure what you are using, mine just clears the seat. When i sit on, the seat collapse enough to deform the custom dust cap I'm using. 35mm (34.2) from block to the naked bleed nipple.
More information Just getting ready to go down to the Goodwood breakfast meeting and I noticed a black mark on the n/s of the inboard ear disk. Actually just trying to get the cat out of the garage before locking him in. I was disgusted to find it was grease. This would explain the good feel on the peddle and piss poor performance on the brake. If this works, my apologies to Ducati. Stripped apart the caliper to find the n/s pad is thick with the same grease that is all over the back wheel. This is from the Scott Oiler, correctly adjust to one drop every two minutes at tick over. Just spent the last hour cleaning the back wheel, hub and disk. Fitting new pads as soon as it dries. Easy check to make. Just get a clean white tissue and wipe the near side and off side, then see what you've got. Ahh…Mr. Designer at Ducati please note that air is lighter than brake fluid, so unless you invert the motorcycle your bleed nipple location won’t work. Removing the caliper is a right carry on, surely the correct process should always be on the motorcycle!
Cheers ACT, I`l get my measuring stick out. My seat has a rubber pad on it which looks to protect the hoses running to/from the block. The seat wont even sit down on its mount at the rear before the pad impacts the bleed nipple. Mike
Note: I've got the performance seat, so no pad. Correction, I've got a pad with a big dimple in it :biggrin:
OK. Degreased rear disk and fitted new HH pads, 6 miles of town riding for "bedding in", gentle squeeze on the peddle, ABS lights up :biggrin: Rear Brake is more than acceptable. However I've treated my self to a Galfer wavy rear disk and some Gillies rearsets (and some K&N oil) £289.56 from Performance Parts Ltd NN11 4HW
Any chance of the part number or a link to the pads please mate? I fitted the bleed nipple to my ABS unit yesterday and got a few more bubbles out, further reducing pedal travel before grip, but I'd like to do the pads too as I doubt that the brake will be as good as I'd like. Not had the chance to test it since the last bleed as it's 1 wheel short of a functioning motorcycle (front was out ready for a new tyre). :wink:
The nipple on the rear brake banjo just fouled the seat base on mine. I simply drilled a 10 mm hole at the point of contact to clear the nipple.
Good idea, but looking at how thin the padding is in that area I was concerned I`d end up sat on it. Any problems you have found affecting comfort ?
Has anyone tried changing their brake fluid for a high temperature equivalent in case the heat from the cat is adding to the problems? I should be home this weekend and one of my jobs is to change the banjoes on the ABS unit so if it'd help I'll change the fluid completely at the same time.
I wonder if a layer of Zircoflex heat insulation between the hot exhaust and the brake parts would be beneficial? Might try it sometime. ZircoFlex - our flexible ceramic heatshield material
