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Soft / Bad / poor brakes brake Back or and Front - Simple low cost modification

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by AirCon, Jul 27, 2013.

  1. True true. Taking out my garage located sofa bed today to make room for a possible 2nd bike.
     
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  2. This must be a good trend as I also have a 2nd bike in the garage :upyeah: My better half bought my pitch about it being an "investment"

    Had the ABS bleed mod done today as I found my front brake was a bit softer than I would like. Only a short test ride but the front brake felt really sharp and faster action, just right for two finger use. No noticeable change to the back but that's only really used in traffic as I find the front with engine braking at the rear works for me.

    My 2010 continues to put a smile on my face and is just soooo fast. Absolutely no plans to change while it serves me so well :)
     
  3. Just brought these hope they are right , Screen Shot 2016-04-24 at 12.51.45.png

    Given its brakes , what torque settings should i use ?

    Regards
    Chris
     
  4. Can you please let us know if they're any good Chris?

    10NM is the usual T/F for this sort of thing - but you'll need an accurate low value wrench to trust. Personally when it comes to Plugs and nipples I prefer to go by feel!
    :smirk:
    Lumpy
     
  5. Thank you I have a set of 3 Norbar torque wrenches with one from 1nm - 20nm so trust it for 10 as nicely in the middle. I did the banjo bit to 23nm and 10nm for bleed nipple. The quality of the components that came seem great to my laymans eye. But WOW ! seriously WOW ! my back brake is solid works a treat. I bled at abs unit and it came out full of tiny tiny bubbles for ages. Brilliant now , I did the front inc abs and still got a problem there in that i can pull lever to handle bar , but the actual braking is great and rear will lift with a hard squeeze i just hate the fact lever will pull back to handle bar when stationary and i can't figure out why . there is no air in the system. They work fine and when riding can't pull back to bar .
     
  6. Do the old tie the lever back with a cable tie or strong elastic band leave it over night then see how the lever feels
     
  7. its solid then and fine but returns after a few days to back to handle bar when stationary. Do I need a new master cylinder :) Brembo RCS for example !
     
  8. Ditto with my front. Goes rock hard for a day and then returns. I've ordered some new race fluid that should arrive Tuesday. I'll be flushing out the old stuff to replace it. I think fluid from an opened container is the cause of the fault returning after a few days


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  9. Ditto with above, had a new master cylinder fitted, great pressure at the lever for a few hundred miles then back to normal.
     
  10. I've just done this mod got some neat banjo's from ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jitsie-Clutch-Banjo-Bolt-And-Bleed-Nipple-Red/221976090846?_trksid=p5713.c100043.m2062&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140502134130%26meid%3D75b6058f26a749c6b82dc12c4b7c79b5%26pid%3D100043%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26sd%3D221976090846
    but my bake brake feels worse more spongy , I've bleed the feck out of it and probably pumped 300ml of fluid through, the bike is up on the rear paddock stand, any ideas please ?
    theres no air coming out, should I leave it on the paddock over night and bleed, check again ?
     
  11. I've done exactly the same. I re-bled it all last night (front brake doing the same).

    I cable tied the front lever and cable tied the rear lever (centre stand comes in handy here as you can cable tie it to that). After leaving it overnight I bled at the ABS (Rear) & Master Cylinder (Front) before undoing the cable tie and got some big bubbles out. Then I pumped each lever and opened each bleed nipple just a fraction, very quickly and each time a bubble or 5 came out. After a while I got nothing but fluid and both brakes feel quite good now. Left both cable tied again today and will double check when I get home from work.

    I like a rock hard, practically zero ability to pull back on the brakes as I find it helps when really pushing on. Even though the sometimes spongey brakes still work, when you want to go fast you need that instant braking you only get from a rock solid lever.
     
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  12. I haven't bled the calliper I'll try that and leaving it over night with pedal down, but agree I like the brake leavers firm, my rear goes to the bloody stop, thanks for the reply.
     
  13. Has anyone done this mod on the DVT
     
  14. Absolutely no reason the same wouldn't work. It's all the same hydraulic system so, bled right, it all should improve things.
     
  15. Back brake is fine but there's a bit of sponginess that's difficult to eliminate...
     
  16. Right. Spent an age bleeding, cable tying overnight, then re-bleeding both brakes. Went for a ride last night and both brakes are superb. Both have minimal lever travel before activating. One finger front braking no problem and the rear is the best it has ever been. About an inch of travel and that's as far as I can stomp on it. Perfect!


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  17. Bleeding brilliant!
    Did you need to raise the rear caliper?
    I bought the same bleed screws off Ebay and looking to use DOT5.1 to replace
    the filthy fluid left in by a premier Ducati dealer after they completed the 5 year Desmo service. Well they did only charge £900 for the work so I suppose one shouldn't expect too much!:eek:penmouth:
     
  18. Hold your horses. 1 day later my rear is going to the bloody floor again. So much anger!


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  19. That just doesn't make sense, something's amiss. Presumably then air is being drawn in somewhere? Unless you didn't actually manage to eliminate all of it and it's playing hide and seek somewhere in the system!?
     
  20. Don't have time to bleed again tonight. Off to Donny tomorrow so will do it Monday.


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