ThAnks so much Red... I've learnt more from you than anywhere else , I'm deff getting a lot better at it now, my paint results are so much better.., The biggest problem for me seems to be getting room temp right... I have a heater in my Ducati shack, so it's no problem if it's too cold, but cooling it down is a real prob, can't use a fan because of blowing crap around.. So at mo what I tend to do is spray it very early in morning... Am I correct in saying, base coat is your colour and clear coat is your lacquer? Thanks again..
Spraying in the morning is normally the best time and I have started work in the summer before now when it's not even been light! in order to get items prepared and ready for spraying, you can also then judge the best time to start your spraying, it's better and easier to wait for the temperature to rise than sit and hope it drops. If you are doing several items then try and do them all together so that the rising temperature of the day does not sweep up too much. Post midday is usually way too hot to spray if you don't have a range of hardeners, and after that the temperature is still climbing up until about 4.00pm. Spraying early also helps out with less insects or other flying "things" as they don't tend to be about very early in the morning in the same numbers. If you are spraying clear over base (the base is the colour you want the item to be) which is what you have mentioned above then spray about 4 lights coats of colour and leave to dry somewhere as dust free as possible. Buy a clear over base tack rag to rub over the surface very lightly before you finally finish with your clear lacquer coat. The clear over base tack rags are specially made with lighter "glue" so that they just pick out the dust elements and don't "smear" or put any adhesive on the surface. I buy mine in boxes from ebay but you really only maybe need one or two as you can just keep turning them over. Try and use a new side for every one or two items to avoid cross contamination after using it for the first time on a new side. If you have already been using a standard tack rag then don't use it any more on any clear over base work, this could be one thing that is causing you problems because of grit or smear. Standard tack rags really lift off loads of dirt but once lifted it can be rub back onto the surface again. For a fully degreased and residue free surface use menthylated spirit to lightly wash the dry surface with a lint free rag and then finish with a clear over base tack rag. This helps to eradicate fish eyes and silicones, these things are naturally present in the air all the time as tiny particles. Make sure you don't use too much spirit and ensure that the spirit will not act as a solvent on the paint, so test it first as some paints can't resist it. I hope this all helps, let me know if you need any clarification.
Red.. Thanks again mate.. I've ordered those low tack rags.. This might be a daft question. But I've a lot of matt and gloss 2 k lacqure .. If I mix a bit together will it give me satin?
Assuming they are the same brand then in theory I would say yes, I would control the mix very carefully though. Mix a tiny batch first and then see how it comes out. If it works then mix a single batch and use it to do everything that you need to do in that finish. It will keep as long as you don't use any hardener in it until you need to and it is tightly sealed in a container. You might need to experiment a bit. I must admit that I have never tried mixing lacquers (i.e. gloss and satin) but you should note that they should both be MS or HS types. This means Medium or High solid content. If you mix one of each, say on a part basis, you might find an HS mixed with an MS will give you a poor result. I personally use MS lacquers as they allow several coats but HS ones require less but are more expensive but will give a higher build. There are LS lacquers about but these tend to be very slow build but allow a lot of run out, they will need the most coats, they are rare though and hard to buy. I hope this helps.
Red.. Paint getting better and Muchly betterer.... One issue I struggle with though is using the gun after it's had 2k lacquer through it.. I clean it out with thinners and blow throu with airline etc but it still seems to block the finer air holes.. Any suggestions pls N@@DS
Yes, the more expensive answer is to buy a gun solely for the use of spraying lacquer that will at least keep contaminants to a minimum. I know it's not always practical, so the the answer is to completely strip and wash the gun really thoroughly immediately after you have sprayed the very last coat. That minimises any time left for the lacquer to harden, take everything you can practically take out of it and clean it separately in a small tray or bowl of thinners, take out all the tip parts and also the nozzle parts and drop them into the bath, use gun cleaning thinners or the cheapest thinners you can buy, I buy 25 litre cans of just ordinary thinners and then I can use that for everything, I pay about £30 for 25 litres . If you are stripping the gun then you could get some gun brushes, usually they come in sets and thoroughly "rifle" out anything that is in the passages, always use loads of air to blow out any debris and clean any in gun strainers as best you can and soak them. I then, when it's all back together, use more cellulose thinner to spray the gun through, wash out the thinner and then put some in and leave it overnight or for however long is practical to leave it without damaging any seals or washers. Spray guns if they are decent are pretty robust so they should stand up to all of the above and if they don't then maybe "retire" them to priming duty or something where perfect finishing of a coat is not vital. Professionals use a gun washing machine and they are expensive, but then again so are professional spray guns. I hope this helps, let me know if you need any thing clarifying.
