Understand all that - but why do you think fitting relays would make both lights come on at the same time ?
MMM Now Im confused? I haven't once mentioned fitting relays. As standard on both the ST2 and ST4 the two headlights are on on main beam. That's normal, but only one on dip. I've not suggested otherwise, only that an ST2 cant charge enough to equal the battery drain on prolonged night-time use.
Cross purposes perhaps - I was explaining how to fit relays and you said the battery will go flat if both the lights are on at the same time...
I shall shortly be auctioning off a Ducati Performance headlight (red), with relays etc. I need to take pics etc but it's likely to be in the next 7 days or so.
I have just come up from the garage. This evening I fitted the headlight to the bike that I have been preparing. I have taken the original projector out and fitted a dip and main beam projector into the headlight. It was a cheapie from ebay China, but it works very well. The intention was to fit a standard halogen 55 watt bulb for now, but I changed my mind and fitted the 35 watt HID xenon kit at the same time (also ebay). I found a bracket on the left side of the headlight that is perfect for mounting the ballast. The headlight is now amazing on dip and main beam. I think that the reason for the standard dip beam being below standard may be due to a build up of grime on the inside of the original projector, when I wiped a finger across it I could see that it was filthy. I now have a spare headlight and might buy the bits and make another one just for the fun of it.
How about you list the parts you used, I have a spare headlight too as, i'm sure other folks do.. This maybe a good mod for a few of us..
The parts are just two ebay items, both from China. The first is a Bi-xenon projector like this for £15, make sure that you get a left or right dip (or flat). The second part is this kit which will give you the bulb and the slimline ballast. It takes an hour or so to dismantle the headlight, take out the existing projector and fit the bi-xenon one. The two wires from the relay on that must go to the main beam of the headlight. The ballast can be fitted to the spare metal plate on the left side of where the light fits in the bike. The cables were attached to the loom above the headlight and it all works fine. I went for the 35 watt kit as that is what I have in my car and I know that the light output is well over twice that of a 55 watt halogen bulb. When on dip you have one HID dip beam, but when you switch to main beam the plate in the projector moves out of the way giving you a HID main beam and if you fit the halogen bulb too you will also have a halogen main beam.
I did take some pictures, but the digital camera has thrown a wobbly and when I went to load them onto the PC they were all blank!
My Ducati Performance Headlight Upgrade will appear on Ebay tonight, item number 301404685846. Please channel queries through ebay once it's active. Thanks.
Super... really interesting, I dont know why I hadn't thought of it but a super idea.. I may buy these bits and have a play, just to try it.. Thanks
Messing about with techie bits is such good fun isn't it. I have just fitted an ebay voltmeter like THIS to my ST2. I have one on my BMW and it is so small and useful that I have to have one on the Ducati too. I was told that the bike has a new battery, but it is a wet battery and is very slow to turn over so I want to keep an eye on the charging before I look at suspect number 2, the solenoid!
Keep it up... this sounds like my old ST2.. I fitted a similar voltmeter too, became paranoid with the running voltage, I found I could sustain my voltage well by running with no lights or side lights but once headlights where on it slowly sank, about 0.2v on a 25 mile commute, main beam would make it fall faster but daylight running (side lights) would put it the voltage back up. This was ok during BST but useless once the clocks went back. My generator output was good, electrex "upgraded" regulator fitted, I'm an electrician by trade too, simply could not get enough output.. my solution, reluctantly, sell the ST2 and buy a ST4..
I am not sure about the charging system yet, I have only had the bike a week! I have changed the rear light to a home made LED panel, the front parking and the instrument lighting to LEDs and am waiting for an LED for the number plate light from ebay. That will all save a few watts. I am not too happy about having a battery with wet acid in it on a bike and am used to gel batteries on BMWs. I may just change the battery for a PC680 as I have on my K100RS and my microlight, but I still have loads to learn about Ducatis. Not sure that I need the power of an ST4 in this area, the ST2 should be great as it is a good match for the wifes BMW F800ST.
Yes, every watt you can save will help and the projector light is a bonus there too .. I dont think there is much to choose between gel and wet in terms of performance. similarly, the ST2 and ST4 are much the same to ride.. Welcome to the world of Marmite, (Ducati) you either love them or hate them but once the bug bites, nothing else will do lol.. I got hooked back in the 1970's when I was involved in Tony Rutter's business and racing.. I've had other bikes over the years but I always come back to Ducati... The ST, (To me), is my "Old Man's" super sport, lol
The performance aspect never entered my mind with battery choice. The only thing that I find puts me off a wet battery is the risk that the bike may fall off the stand or get knocked over sometime, leaking acid does make a mess of paint, don't ask me how I know! The PC 680 is an AGM battery and has loads of cranking amps available, but I also suspect that the starter solenoid might be the problem. Over the next few days I will bypass that solenoid and see if it cranks better. We went out today but had to come back because the back brake had seized on and the rear disc was smoking a bit. After returning home it only took 30 minutes to clean the whole thing up and make sure that the pistons are now free. I guess that I should take some tools out with me and not borrow them from the wife's BMW.
The starter solenoid is a known problem, you will benefit from retrofitting an automotive solenoid and larger cables however they are slow to crank anyway.. The back brake needs adjustment.. use the stoplight adjuster to set the pedal where you need it then adjust the pedal pushrod to make sure that the cylinder returns "home" when not in use otherwise a slight toe pressure from covering the brake will do exactly what you describe.. its a common thing as often riders adjust the pedal position on the brake light actuator, neglecting the fact that they have removed free play from the brake pushrod
A quick update on the bi-xenon projector. Having fitted the voltmeter I am now able to monitor what is happening with the charging system. All the instrument lights, rear lights, front side light are now LEDs so pulling very little power. If I start the bike and then switch the sidelights on, so that all of the LEDs are running, it makes no difference to the running voltage - therefore the system is still charging the battery. If I then switch on the headlight dip, the HID comes on which draws an extra 35 watts when it has settled, this drags the voltage down by a small amount, about 0.2 of a volt. If I then go to main beam then the 55 watt halogen bulb comes in too and the voltage drops by another 0.8 of a volt. The idea of a bi-xenon is that the projector operates as both main and dip on one 35 bulb, and that bulb is well over twice as bright as the 55 watt halogen. I then came to the conclusion that when main is on I will get loads of HID light and probably won't notice the 55 watt halogen at all. This evening I disconnected the halogen main beam and will just use the HID to give dip and main. There is on disadvantage to this setup without the halogen, there is no headlight flasher! All the main beam switch does now is make a click when it moves the HID plate out of the way, OK if the dip is on, but no good if I have no light on. Next step is to come up with some LED array to act as a headlight flasher when riding without lights.
