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St4 radical project

Discussion in 'Builds & Projects' started by PHILLIPO, Aug 18, 2012.

  1. Ok Sev I'm still crossing my fingers though. Lol
    I find that when asking sprayers for advise there all different. Or use different methods and materials.
     
  2. ok, so you are spraying it yourself -cool. What paint system are you using?
     
  3. Just so you know Sev, I spray furniture/Wood, That's how I have a spray booth. I got a gravity gun and compressor. I'm getting the paint from my supplier who sells car paints too. So I have all the measuring cups and stuff. For the red stripes I have got a rattle can spray so I don't have to mix up small amounts of paint.
    What I was going to do next was mask off a large stripe down the centre of the tank and spray it with the silver colour I used on the frame. Once that's dry I was going to mask off for some thin red stripes along side the silver. Then stick some decals on and two pack lacquer over the top.
    You sound like you spray? Can you recommend anything to look out for?
     
  4. That's brilliant if you have a proper booth. You already know to degrease everything properly, but it might be worth after applying your primer to bake the tank. If there is any sinkage on the paint this is when its going to occur - however if you like the weave reading through you don't need to refill the tank. Dust coat on the primer and don't flat by hand, use a block, but you already know that.

    If you're not already, use a 2-1 primer filler if you can, you'll really appreciate it. :upyeah:
     
  5. Nice build Phillipo - where do you recommend getting a front lamp like that from? Did you have to make the hole for it in the Montjuic nose cone yourself or did radical do that for you? I'm thinking of going down the radical route for my project bodywork but the planning is all in my head right now so just looking for real opinions on their kit... ;-)
     
  6. Thanks Lord. I got a pair of lamps of a member from another forum. You can get the kits from a number of suppliers in the uk. I had to cut the hole and fibre glass the return tube for the light to slip into which was fun. If I did it again I would cut the hole in the fairing, mount the fairing and then position the head light. I did it the other way and found it hard to mark the centre of the lamp onto the fairing. The quality isn't that good tbh. There were parts where the carbon had been sanded through, mainly in the centre and around the fuel cap. Thats why I'm spraying a stripe down the centre to cover the joint.
     
  7. Oh wow - not god news then if the carbon's been sanded through! I wanted to paint mine but also leave some showing through the clear lacquer, might make me think again about it now which is a shame as I really love their RAD02 corse evo stuff...perhaps it's worth getting the cheaper glass fibre then?
     
  8. Sorry about the shit pic but finished the silver sections so now on with the red sections.I'll take some better pics when I can.
    tank silver 001.jpg

    tank silver 001.jpg
     
  9. Well, I'm having a nightmare with the spraying at the moment. The front fairing came out great ready for clear top coating but the tank's not good. When I pulled the masking tape off after spraying the red stripes it pulled the silver edge off with it. After wet and drying the silver edge back and re painting, The masking tape pulled the red stipes off.
    fairing laquer 001.jpg fairing laquer 002.jpg

    fairing laquer 001.jpg

    fairing laquer 002.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 3
  10. Had an absolute nightmare with the tank tbh. The masking tape pulled all the silver off. Sorted that out and then the masking tape pulled the red stripe off. So I spent two hours today sanding all the paint off. I've now 800 grit wet and dried sanded the bloody thing all over. Acid etch sprayed it so the paint better stick this time or I'm going to set fire to it.
    I'll have another go at it tomorrow.
     
  11. one way or another (setting fire or success) let us know and show photos.
     
  12. Phillipo, you may have just had release agent or wax still on the part.

    Before you spray next time, get a good solvent cleaner and use that first. You can try a water break test also.

    Just pour water on the prepped surface. if it pulls away instead of staying on the surface and evaporating then you still have contamination on the surfaces.

    let us know how you get on.
     
  13. I think its the clear acid etch that I've used tbh. I 800 grit wet sanded the whole tank and washed it all and dried it. I sprayed acid etch on first and left over night to dry. Then sprayed grey prima on and let dry for four hours. I stuck some masking tape on the bottom section of the tank which is covered by the seat and pulled it off. It just pealed the etch off like cling film. So I'm now just going to try primer without the acid etch and see how that sticks. I took it into my local spray shop and even there scratching there heads and can't understand why its not sticking.
     
  14. Rub it back and do the water break test to be sure. Solvent cleaner then go in with primer or ideally filler primer. What paint system are you using?
     
  15. Sorry. What do you mean by SYSTEM ? gravity gun. Mixing cup ect.
     
  16. no, I was nore thinking the paint itself, such as glasurit, spies hecker, ppg etc.
     
  17. Promatic 2 pack and mipa paint. I tried just using primer with no acid etch and it worked. So I'm going to sand the lot off again and just use the primer.I'm going to pick up some solvent cleaner and filler primer this morning. Thanks for the help Sev. O can I ask, When I go to two pack over the top/ final coat, will I have to Scottish/sand the face before hand? Or is it ok to just spray straight on top because its fresh paint?
     
  18. If you are going wet on wet, which by the sounds of it you are, then no just let the coat flash off as normal, so depending on your paint system can be anything up to 30 mins plus, and go on with the final clear coat.

    The only thing you will need to sand is the initial filler primer. I would apply that and when dry give it a guide coat. sand back and use the cleaner on it.

    You may need to sand back or Scottish the primer depending on finish, but hopefully not. Then once the clear coat has dried and hardened, cut and polish and it will look amazing! good luck

    :upyeah:
     
  19. I got there in the end. There's one or two little marks which I'm hoping will polish out but I'm happy how they turned out for my first attempt at spraying carbon fibre.
    finished tank 007.jpg finished tank 009.jpg

    finished tank 007.jpg

    finished tank 009.jpg
     
    • Like Like x 7
  20. well done, its a lovely job you've done there. :upyeah:
     
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