1200 DVT Standard Suspension Setting

Interestingly the DVT S standard fork preload is also “fully open”. Same as a standard 2013. Sounds like there’s a common theme.

 

Workshop manual states Spring preload: Fully open (counter clockwise).

 

For the DVT?

 

I think they all do, but transforms the bike when you add some preload.

 

Thinking about this, the S may well be because of the skyhook, whereas standard wont have the bike sorting itself out to resit dive and keep as flat as possible

 

I’ll wind it out to min then take it back in 1/2 turn per 15kg. It’ll give me a starting point.

 

Yes 2017 standard model DVT

 

The manual says to use a 22mm socket on the larger nut at the top of the suspension. Labelled 2. Surely it’s the smaller nut on the top of the fork, just under 1?
For pre load?

 

Standard suspension, not Skyhook, 22mm nut is Pre-load, with smaller adjuster (1) being compression/rebound, I forget which leg does what, but one leg does compression, and the other rebound.

 

It’s whichever nut is 22mm

 

Compression is at the bottom of the forks and rebound is the top screw. Thanks......you know when you wished you hadn’t started something

 

Do the rings on the gold hex (14mm) nut represent the amount wound in? If so, they change by turning the gold hex nut. The silver hex nut (22mm) at the bottom doesn’t want to move at all??

 

On yours it’s the 14mm then. It’s the gold one you want

 

That’s what 24 years of motorcycling made me think too! Glad I wasn’t going mad.

 

The brass nut is what you turn. The rings indicate the amount of preload. So wind the brass nut clockwise til it stops. Mark common spot with pencil on brass nuts. Count rotations with Mark counterclockwise so they are equal on both sides and agree with manual starting point. And make your adjustments from there to suit your weight, etc. Sorry I do not know factory preload setting. I think this is more precise than counting rings.

 

Will do, but I’ve no real reference as it turns vs weight, given this model appears completely different to previous ones.
I can’t get over how wrong the manual is! Makes me wonder if the settings listed are as “accurate”.

I might email Ducati UK to complain.

 

Start with the 15kg per half turn

Otherwise, you could get a mate and set it up properly by measuring the sag and adjusting accordingly. Not sure what % of travel for rider sag, again start at 30% and work from that (more sag, softer feel).

HTH

 

Take it to a guru, pay 50 quid for a set up, save the heart ache.

 

Any recommendations in the North West or North Wales? I’m based near Chester.

 

Just to update you, I’m still waiting for Ducati to advise me, so being impatient I’ve worshipped at the feet of YouTube and found out how to set preload from sag. Although two people are recommended I’m far to impatient to wait so found a method to do the front singlehanded.

Place the bike on the centre stand and lift the nose with your shoulder until the wheel is off the ground. Measure the visible length of inner tube (170mm).

Place a small cable tie around the fork leg, just under the main tube, ensuring it can move up and down freely, without slipping when left alone. I found using the cable tie the wrong way around gave enough grip without the hassle of cutting it off later.

Wearing you full riding gear, with a full tank of fuel, take the bike off the centre stand and sit on it. If you can, place feet on the pegs and balance using the garage wall, or maximise your weight on the bike using tip toes for balance.

Gently get off and place on the side stand. You’ll see the cable tie has moved down the fork leg. Measure the distance from the top of the cable tie to the bottom of the outer fork and you have your sag measurement.

You want 30 to 33% sag so around 55mm.

Adjust the 14mm brass hex clockwise (more pre load) or counter clockwise (less) until it’s correct.

NB endure both legs are the same. I screwed both in to the max then counted complete turns back out.

For my 14 stone that’s 7 full turns from max.