Put it this way, when we cold start our helicopters all we do is idle for longer before increasing the rpm of whatever is required next so the guilds are up to temp.
Spjallen, I don't think that was the OP's original question, if you are actually going to go out for a ride on the bike then as you mention maybe a slightly longer tick over pre ride warm up would be beneficial, but ultimately if you are going out on it the engine will reach a good and proper operating temp so no condensation issues, I think the OP was asking if he actually wasn't going out on it, is it better just to move the belts by hand, or run the engine up to temperature i.e. idle for a long time before putting away again not actually going out for a ride or at least thats how I read it. Maccaa
@ Macca - yep think you're right 're your understanding. Various peeps have advised me that running the bike up to temp (even hot) but not riding it us not the same (from the engine's pov) as going out for a run. Something bout all engine not really getting hot etc. No idea if this is fact or fiction but I don't start unless I'm going to ride, just in case.
This is the point isn't it. If I let mine tick over at operating temp for a the same period as going for a ride what's the difference? My why caption is on!! Ha ha
But why run it up to temp if your not going out on it when it can only do more harm than good, even if miniscule? Don't understand
This is cut/pasted from a post on the old Ducatisti site [to which I can't therefore post any link]; I made a note of it at the time. In came in the course of a long debate just like this, between the twitchy run-it-on-the-stands-for-5-mins, and the chillaxed chuck-a-blanket-over-it, brigades. "Hi All I spoke today to a guy that spent many years working in the ducati factory about winter use and storage. We could have chatted for days but here is the very short version of his advice; 1) They reccomended that if you are going to take the bike out for a spin then it needs to be a minmum of 35 miles to drive all the condensation form the engine. 2) Never go out to your bike, start if for 5mins thinking you are doing good - this is the worst thing you could do. 3) If you cannot take it out and want to start it put it up on stands, start it, get it in fifth and run it for 35 miles, changing gear now and again. 4)If you cannot do either then turn your baby on, and with the kill switch to off just turn the engine to change position of the belts every two - three weeks. 5) Do not leave modern fuels in your carbs for more than 2-3 months. 6) Fit an optimate style charger. 7) Make sure you clean the fuel filter regularly, apparently this is a major cause of battery drain on the dukes." [FWIW my own regime is to stop riding as soon as they've gritted and resume only when it's cleared. This often means the bikes are dormant for 5 months. I put fuel stabiliser in, and alternate an Optimate between the bikes. I never start them and I don't touch the belts.]
personally, i go into the workshop, close the door, check all windows are sealed and run the bike till my eyes water with the fumes... each to their own eh?
Just wanted to post something about the Bike Bubble storage thingy. They’re excellent and can personally verify that they most definitely do what they’re meant to, i.e. keep the bike clean & dry. They’re not cheap that’s for sure but they’re made from good quality materials, have a built in filtered fan which is powered by a unit that also acts as a battery optimiser. I bought one several years ago for a bike I’d bought as an investment and wanted to store in my parents garage who live right on the south coast so damp salty air can be a real issue year round. When I originally collected the bike it was a cold and wet winter’s day, I left in the van overnight and drove to my parents the following morning. When I took the bike out of the van it was dripping in condensation, I put it in the bubble, connected it up and opened the vent as per the instructions. Buy the following morning the bike was bone dry so it was cleaned & given a liberal coat of AFC-50, the top was zipped up, vent closed. The bubble kept it clean & dry for the next 5yrs and the battery was still alive too. FYI, I’m not connected to or have any affiliation to the company in anyway.
i like it! noticed a lil pool of water under mine the other week and spent ages looking for the source, took a lil while but i realized it was condensation forming then finding its way to the lowest point... cold as fuck workshop. liking the carcoon thing but would it be a hassle? as in is it a long term storage thing? or not too much of a pain to use weekly? plan on riding any nice weekend day over winter. should i just through a blankie over her?
I run a dehumidifier in my garage over winter, it keeps it at a perfect 55% RH. Not only protects the bikes but prevents tools etc corroding, and means you can use the garage for storing paper and cardboard etc which might otherwise get damp. It's a good feeling, every few days, emptying out litres of cold water which would otherwise have been settling over everything else in the garage.
thought about doing this but my workshop has to many leaks... think a dehumidifier would be working overtime to little effect...
