The facts: I tend to keep my bike on charge when not in use The bike always starts firms time when at home. I tend to ride with my lights on Recently I will ride, stop the bike, then when I return, the bike will not start. The fuel pump whirrs, the neutral light comes on. But when you press the start button there isn't even a click. I though that clicking the lights on and off with the starter button held in had some effect as it did eventually start. But I'm not sure if this was just coincidence. It will bump start, then runs fine. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
If the lights are bright enough with the bike not running, your battery may be OK, at least OK enough to click the solenoid. Maybe the solenoid itself, battery connections or starter switch. But it is strange that it starts at home.
There is a small white plug that goes into the back of the solenoid, it is renound for coming loose, check it clean the connections and hold it in with a cable tie. Steve
I wonder if it's only when it's hot.... I'll take my multi meter next ride if I don't resolve it before then. I'll check the white plug too
If you have a voltmeter check your battery voltage when the battery has been at rest (ignition off) for a few hours. Do not connect it to the optimate and check the battery voltage in the morning across the battery terminals before you put the key in, anything less than 12.7v and a new battery is in order. When it is running the voltage should read 13.5-14.5 on fast idle with the lights off, anything less or more and your reg/rec is suspect. Whilst you are in there you need to check the plug on the yellow wires from the alternator stator to the reg/ rec. If there is a sign of burning on any or all of the pins your issue is probably the regulator/rectifier failing. Unfortunately keeping it on an optimate all the time hides battery and charging issues and should be avoided. Regular (every couple of weeks) overnight charges is all that is required and if the optimate goes into the yellow or red zones during the 10 sec test cycle after switching on you will get an early indication of a battery failing. Try to avoid connecting up directly after driving it if you want an accurate condition indication from the optimate as your battery voltage takes a while to settle after a ride.
Don't forget they only run with the sidestand up. Not that I'd forget that and disassemble half of the bike chasing that particular "fault" myself... oh no... :flushed:
Will it try and start with the side stand down? Or just not even fire the starter solenoid? Mine usually runs with it down, but I wonder if there is an issue with the bypass.
The later side stand switch energizes a relay that switches current to the RH switch cluster, with the engine run button set to run that in turn allows current to the starter button, the fuel pump and ecu. If the problem was that stand switch or relay nothing would work on the starter system including the starter button. Earlier ones the RH switch share the same power feed which with the engine run button set for running energizes starter button and fuel pump/ecu at the same time, therefore it is not a good place to start the fault finding
Hi I am having a similar issue. First time I take my 748 to a ride during a day it fires right up, no problem. However if I stop the bike, taking fuel for example the bike wont start until it has cooled down a fair bit. I have all the lights working and fuel pump primes as it should, battery is ok and the Regulator Rectifier (that was toast literally) has just been changed and all the wiring checked by my dealer. I have nothing on the starter button when the bikes engine is hot. Could it be the starter solenoid? I'm out of ideas. Thanks..
Well mine seems to be ok now. I found the collection of relays including the ignition and flasher relay etc had decided to live loose sitting on top of the engine. So must have been getting boiling hot. I've since relocated them to just under the fuse box on the right hand side.
Fin, yes it could be. You can test it with fly lead from the battery to the small switch contact on the solenoid to confirm a faulty starter switch or its wiring or a heavy fly lead from the battery + direct to the output to test the starter motor The proper location for the safety relay and flasher is in small rubber mounting block which hangs on the bottom left hand side of the battery box assembly. The main fuse sits on the other side of the battery box
Update... I cleaned all the connections, re-tightened all the connections and pushed all the fuses back to their slots etc.. And the bike cleared the problem, Had ridden it for around 300-400 km after this with multiple hot starts and it works perfect every time. I don't know what it was exactly, but it seems to have been sorted out
Had posted a kinda similar deliema just now.... but figured it would be best to start a new thread.. so editing this to reflect that.
Many thanks, Birdie! Just fixed it as described. Steps taken: 1. disconnect battery (negative first, positive second) 2. release the cable going into the solenoid from its direct connection to positive side of battery so that you can take the solenoid out 3. take solenoid out pushing it with rubber part from the metal brackets 4. take out rubber part (mind how it fits on the solenoid) 5. attach cable tie -> space is tight, so use narrow cable tie (can join two/more to get longitude), decided to place it between the two cables going into the white plug in the back of the solenoid 6. place back rubber part minding the shapes matching the solenoid 7. place back solenoid with rubber part on the metal brackets (small dents on the metal brackets will come out) 8. attach cable connection to the positive joint 9. connect the battery (positive first, negative second) Sharing visuals of the cable tie connection... If someone has a better connection solution, pls share. Have fun and ride safe, Aleksandar
When I boughtr by brand new St4s in 2002 the dealer (i think) cable tied both solenoide and white connector.
