I think quite a few on here do this annually, as it then takes as many minutes to do as hours if you leave it.
I wonder if it is possible to use a hollow cylinder hydraulic Jack to pull the bolt out. Using a rod and nut through the bolt to draw the bolt out.
I agree with the last bit, but it's not right to have everyone who reads this on here think that it's only ever a 10 minute job - have you ever had to remove a severely rusty one Martin?
Although greasing it when replacing it is important, putting a lot of grease on is a waste of time due to the tight tolerance pushing it through the bushes just scrapes it off.
The factory tool is aluminium. A steel drift flares the end of the axle and as it's a tolerance fit in the bearings and once flared, it ain't coming out other than towards you. If it's solid, then leave the bolt in, back it out a few turns and hit that to break the corrosion. Once it moves, it's pretty much job done. Most I've seen have been flared out of frustration and a steel drift..
I have a local machinist making me a drift the same as this so hopefully it will do the trick while soaking it with some heavy duty penetrating oil over the weekend
when i attempted to remove mine, i backed the bolt out a bit and tapped that first, it moved no prob. i then removed the bolt and tapped the shaft itself with a drift and again it moved no prob but only about 30/40mm then no where. i hit it back in and out many times all the while spraying shit loads on penetrating fluid in there but it wouldnt go nay further.. so i get the big hammer and gave it some proper treatment!!! it moved alot!! but not all the way as i had burred the end buy then i guess.. as to why it only moved 30/40 mm i dont know as it is not that old and was well greased.. you are of course correct in that the damage was done out of frustration (and a shit drift!) but i had broken the corrosion and expected it would move... some jobs are just a cunt end of!!! i should have left it alone, in future i aint touching it and if i do need to drop the engine, im bringing it to you!!!!
but that's the problem, you would have to be psychic to know where on the shaft the corrosion is, and how much there is of it. As Steve (Birdie) said - it's a bearing/slide fit for the entire shaft diameter so that means you could also be scraping rust off for almost it's entire length.
all good mate! a fact's a fact.. this time i messed it right up! but i doubt anyone could have removed it the first time. i have pics somewhere of the state of the shaft after i cut it out and its a right mess. after i cut it out i couldn't even remove a 50mm section that was fused to one of the bushes by lump hammer and drift so there was no way the whole lot was ever gunna pass through... in my opinion....
Hi Liam. How much and from what material please? Hopefully aluminium. Would he be open to making some more for us members? I have tried locally but no engineering shop is interested so far.
I am having it made from stainless steel as that’s all I could get my hands on without buying a whole length of material. He’s doing it as a favour in his lunch break at work as he’s know my dad for years so unfortunately he wouldn’t be able to make them to order. I am surprised no machine shop near you will make one with it being such an easy job it’s a good money maker for them
See post 27. Is this something you could do on your lathe in aluminium? If so, stick a members price here and wait for the orders to come in. I would say there would be a reasonable demand if you check out the number of issues members have with stuck swing arm pivot bolts.
