Would have to be ally. (Whats the best spec available in round bar?) Cost wise, i’m not sure of the price of a ducati supplied tool ( i presume they sell them to the public?)
Fair question that, each member would have their own view on what is the right price. Those that have experienced trouble would probably pay more, those who remove the pivot effortlessly every year probably would not want one. Rather than subject everyone to what I think, can you not price according to what you would want to cover your costs and profit margin? Previous posts have suggested that the material would be best in aluminum, failing that mild steel.
Factory tool is a little under 50 quid and yes, if you want one you can order them. I wouldn’t use anything other than aluminium tbh. Mild steel, stainless all risk flaring the end of the axle.
@Liam durrand I believe yours is being made in s/steel - see above and the previous post. ps Nelly is an expert @Jamie Clare I’d be interested in one. IMO if yours was a similar price to the official Ducati one I’d support you.
To be honest mine is more for the future as I am pretty sure I am going to have to cut this one. I am going to agitate mine every couple of months when the bike goes back together just too keep it moving so i shouldn’t have to worry about the s/s tool flaring the end. Mine hasn’t moved a single mm after days of soaking and hammering I fear it’s a lost cause
The problem is that you can't get the penetrating oil to where the rust is, the bolt goes through bushes at each end about 60mm long, the rust builds up between these two bushes in the engine casing.
Don't mess about causing damage hitting it, just cut it out, I've just done it and caused more damage trying to hit it out. Easy to cut with a hacksaw blade.
Have got a can of WURHT HHS creep oil that’s designed for this sort of thing. as birdie says it’s trying to get it into the correct spots so I am going to soak it for a few days while my drug is being made and try again but will most likely end up cutting it out
Probably not as rusty as some can get. I had one that would not budge after 3 hours of work until I got the tool and a large mallet/gimpy. I slightly mushroomed the aluminium tool but it worked.
i also have had 2 bikes wth this issue, one was an accident damaged 996 and the rear swingarm axle had a small offset in it due to the crash, i ended up sawing that one out the second was a couple of years ago, and i had a brass drift made up as well... still wouldn't budge until i borrowed an engine stand and then suspended the bike front rear and middle, as the flex was taking the shock out of the hammer impacts. once on the engine stand it started to move, but still was a 30 minute job after it started to move..
From my experience when I did mine you should concentrate on the chain side, this is the side the shaft comes out and the side the rust has to be removed before it can go through the bush, as we've all said once a bit of movement occurs it's just a matter of patience knocking it back and forth adding penetrating oil to gradually remove the rust. I needed heat eventually to get mine out, it now slides out easily 5 minute job every service. Mine removed last service and it has had a new chain and sprockets since. Steve
On mine (Monster 1200) the pivot was held by stiff gummed grease - there was pitting corrosion on the pin but it had not increased the diameter of the pin like rust does. So I used a higher temperature spray grease (WD40 white lithium grease) inside the crankcase and or the pivot -hope it helps for next time
I’m just starting this lovely job, loads of pocket rocket penetrating fluid unleashed, can anyone confirm the size of the nut on the right had side? 21mm socket is loose.
