Nah.......... It is relatively easy.....all you need is a strong grip and know when to move......(Oh, and where to....) .....it pays to learn the circuit well, though; basically so that you can do it with your eyes closed. The main thing to remember is never take both hands off at once....... And you can steer it almost as well as the driver....... I found that when riding solo (on track), I couldn't push it enough without getting my line slightly wrong..... ....I think I was always fearful of rolling the front over onto the sidewall.......still am!! But oddly enough, I could push my ZZR1100 around Snetterton faster and better than I could my ZXR750......which to my mind was wrong. BTW, the platform you see in the pic was considerably reduced in area when the fairing was on. AL
OK...Well under way with the swingarm swap........taking longer than it should because its getting a clean in the parts where normal cleaning doesn't reach........(f-ing chain grease balms everything up)... One thing noticed, is that the swingarm pivot spindle for the steel swingarm had two circlips, one at each end.....they are there to stop the spindle sliding out if the pinchbolts have a got a bit slack. ..and of course because the ally swingarm is slightly wider (exactly the same as the overall length of the spindle) so the circlips can't be used. So.....whaddya reckon of this?? If I drill down through the top of the ally swingarm on the crown of the spindle hole, I could (possibly...depending on the hardness of the spindle) also get the hole through the wall of the spindle; then drill and tap the whole lot for an M5 bolt....or just detent the spindle a bit to take a pointy end of the bolt. That ought to stop the spindle from sliding. Good idea or not? AL
Job done......Decided not to drill the swingarm and stick a spindle locking bolt in......(franky, why make work?)........but I will have to watch the spindle ends and see if they start to move.......shouldn't really considering the heave I put on the pinchbolts. Would have liked to have got another shim in but it was just too tight to get a 0.1mm one in there......I'll have to check after a few miles or so and see if it will go on. Anyway.....here's a view with stand in place............. AL
Al, don't do the pinch bolts up too tight, that's what cracks the arm near the splindle. I ran my SSie without a circlip for a time without moving but I would source the correct spindle for security of circlips although I think earlier bikes didn't have them anyway
100m long Allen key and a small extension bar (another 100mm) on the end and a good heave is what they got........I still like the idea of a locking bolt, though. Still, if it breaks, I still have the old steel one.............but with the state of it, some serious blasting a powder coating is needed. AL
Bluddy or bubbly!!?? No awaiting the seal kit but I'm putting the std MC back on, cleaned them up ready to fit
Ooooh.............that's a clever stand AL..........you can do all the work to the rear end without taking the zorsts and everything else off....
that AL is indeed a clever stand..you can do all the work to the rear end without taking the zorsts and everything else off....
I was advised to check the rear shock top mount O-rings.........Well, there aren't any. Can anyone tell me what size O rings I need, please? Is the diameter greater than the bush or do they sit between the bush and the frame lugs?..... .....from what I can see on the frame lugs there were never any in there, plus if they should fit around the bush, then half of them will be exposed, because the frame lug diameter at the end is the same diameter as the bush..... I tried a couple of 25mm ID ones (same as bush OD) out of curiosity and they just squeeze out. And....are these bushes the type that are greased or are they dry? Thanks AL
AL Have a look at this post it might help understand what I came across. [h=2]900ss (Showa GD022) rear shock stuff[/h]The seals that I had in my shock (not sure if is the same as 750) where more of a square shape. These where behind the head of the top hap bushes. I tried to find some replacements but could not find off the shelf. I few people would cut me some square sections ones but at £5-6 ago I thought better of it. I measured everything up and drew it out and chose a conventional o ring to replace them. ....... One second I'll go and see what I used. 17.5 i/d x 2.5 section - Nitrile. I also bought 17 i/d but thought 17.5 gave a bit better fit on o/d. I chose Nitrile because I thought it was ok with grease - gave the new bearings a liberal coating of lithium based moly grease and packed it in. (happy for someone to correct me.) I do plan to put some between the frame lugs shock mounting lugs as you said but have not worked out a size yet. I did try some but again as you found they popped out, think it needs to be stretched over bush o/d but still thick enough to give a bit of compression. The spherical plain bearings are as previous post above - hope 900 is same as 750. I could be wrong but I think the practice of putting o ring between the frame lugs and the shock mounting lugs is a after market thing for a bit of back up, but could be wrong, I thought it was something the bloke I bought the bike off told me about. Cheers Gaz
Thanks Gaz....I'll investigate..........but I can't see how a seal will fit around the edge of the bush itself....there isn't any room. But without anything between the mount lugs and the top of the shock, the shock has a lot of twist..... I'm also wondering if the shock has a small leak......so if I can find a reasonable condition replacement, it might be the way to go.... AL
Al Sorry if i have misread but you need to take the bushes out. The seals go behind the top hat / flange od the bush and the bushes are then reinstalled (squeeze them together in a vice). With the seal behind the bush this then makes the bush quite ridgid when you put a bolt in it and move it around. When I replaced mine there was 1 seal missing, but not 4 as you seem to have which I agree will make the shock wobble about. Have a look back at post link I gave, I ground up a bit of bar up with a sharp edge to knock the bushes out. They come together in the middle leaving a small groove you can just get into. But if you think its leaking its maybe best looking at another shock. Cheers Gaz
Thanks Gaz.......I have finally sussed what the bush / bearing is like, thanks to your posts......very similar to a very hard nylon type I had on another bike (which wasn't lubed)..... I can get the O ring seals, but I am now trying to establish if my shock is the same as yours / others or if I have to source different bearings altogether........I posted it in Technical, but here it is again.......is this the Sachs-Boge version? AL Just established it is the Sachs Boge........now I have to find what the bearings are....
Replace with s/h showa would be good alternative to repair. Go quite cheap on ebay if you lucky. A lot of DD fit SSie for extra ride height and quicker steering.
I'm happy with the Sachs Boge, or at least a working properly one.............I don't need anymore ride height and quicker steering.....mine drops in so fast, I nearly always have to pick it up in rather a hurry..... ......talk about race geometry........you should see it wibbly-wobbly at low speed..... AL
