The airbox is fixed to the throttle bodies from underneath, the throttle bodies are held in place with 2 "jubilee clip" type affairs to the rubber inlets, if you loosen these you should be able to wiggle the whole assembly off with a bit of force, the rubber inlets are pretty snug
Sounds right up my street. Thanks for the info, I'll try it over the next few days. When I was looking at it today, just looked like it was connected to almost every nut and bolt under it. Thanks again.
Completely off topic , and pm me if you like but have you any advice for things to do in Dubai? We are there for two days in April and I need advice from a local.
Cracking work Fraser, watching the pics appear on FB today. For the exhaust I've used scotchbrite 3M sheets before with good results, a bit like industrial grade Brillo pads. Good luck with it
Having re read what I put, just so it's clear the rubber inlets I mentioned are the engine intake manifolds attached to the heads so when you loosen these off the Airbox comes away from the motor with the TBs still attached there will be other bits and pieces still attached too there's at least one oil breather pipe, the throttle cables, tps cable, injector cables and probably more but you should be able to disconnect all these as you go, have fun & keep the photos coming it's a great project
Agree. And if you're not after a polished look, a quick and efficient way is Scottish brite on a small orbital sander. 5 minute job! Don't know if you can do this with your stand but while at it, it might be an idea to tap out the swing arm spindle and re grease it. The longer you leave it, the higher the chance of it seizing up. Looking forward to seeing it finished. Ian
Hi matey, many many thanks. I just hope I remember how to put it all back together again. Lego it ain't!! I'll give the scotchbrite a blast first, maybe a rotary sander too. Seen a post about ceramic coating, not sure about colours though.. lets see. Hope you're well.
Mate, drop me a PM and I'll help where I can. I'm living along the road in Abu Dhabi, the village as some say, but know a few places to head in Dubai. Bring shorts and suncream, that's my first free advice. ;-)
Thanks for the tips. The swingarm I hadn't even thought about. I'll have a look see at how it might, or might not work with the stand, but I think it'd just get in the way. No harm in looking at it. Thanks again.
Sounds like a job, but I'll have to remove the throttle cables etc anyways as I'm replacing the entire front end. Kinda in the deep sticky end of my knowledge with this part, but like I said at the start - the only way to learn is to do. I'll let you know how I get on - might attack it tomorrow....
No great update for today. Took the DTC sensor and DDA cable off of the seat unit and removed the DP screen from the nose fairing. Bagged up a few more bits and bobs and started packing the old items away. I had thought about selling the parts I don't need, but I may put the bike back to standard trim one day, so want to keep the option of being able to do that with all the OEM parts that came with the bike. Oh, I started to weigh the removed parts too. Should give me an idea of it's weight once completed. I might borrow some fancy scales from work too if they'll let me....!! Cheers
Well today I managed to remove the airbox. In all honesty, it's really not that difficult at all - in hindsight....! I have the spare parts manual for the bike, so spent a good hour or so studying that and figuring out what was connected to what. Disconnect the oil breather pipe at the engine end (easily slides up between the vertical cylinder belt cover and the frame), loosen the two worm drive clamps that secure the throttle bodies on to the intake manifolds. There is an electrical connector on the injector for each cylinder, plus two connections on the throttle body. The later is a simple plug and the other has a wire clip on it. Fiddly. There is also a vent pipe the is routed down behind the battery bracket - that just slides out with the airbox. The hardest part (for me as I don't really want to start playing about with the TPS as I don't know enough about it) was what to do with the throttle. Again, reading some of the parts manual and trying to figure out how it works... I just took it apart. Works basically the same as an old school cable brake from a bicycle - simple. The clip-ons are coming off anyways as the entire front-end is being replaced/upgraded. Once I'd made a mess removing the brake master cylinder (thought I'd drained the whole system... alas not), the throttle once dismantlement, slides through the fronts of the frame. The airbox after a but of a wiggle just pops off. Nice! Very happy I took the time to take it off. The picture doesn't show it, but it's filthy inside. I'll get the throttle bodies off and give it a good clean. While I have the airbox off, is there anything I should be doing as I have the access? It'll get a good clean, but the only thing I see that I could use the space for replacing the coolant hoses. Any other thoughts? What seemed much much cleaner were the tops of valves. I was planning to run and fuel system cleaner (Redline Si-1) through a full fuel tank and see what it did, but I never had the time. Does wonders for the car, huge difference. This picture should give me a good reference point for the next time I strip her down. Unfortunately, a lot of the time was taken in cleaning up the mess from removing the front brake master cylinder. Fluid ended on the wheel, calipers, tools... me - nasty. Wanted to make sure I cleaned up everything as that stuff is super corrosive I understand. The calipers are great looking things, Brembo M4's. I had a search on the interweb for some technical info - bloody hell they're expensive... They work damn well though ;-) I've ordered some purely aesthetically pleasing carbon belts covers, well why not eh? The horizontal one came off easier than I drink coffee... The vertical one though has a hex bolt that I just can't get too. I'd nipped to my local hardware store, ACE, bit like B&Q and they had a miniture socket set that I needed, a bosch one. Perfect. It's only twice the fecking price here of what it is back in the UK... Who said they're not tax here!! Ordered online and I'll get it next week. So that's about all for today. Need to figure out how to get that exhaust off. I'll soak it overnight, covered with WD-40 - I'm sure it'll help.
Well, WD40 does what it says on the tin... The exhaust was on super tight, so after an overnight soaking with not all that much WD40, it was loose on my first touch this morning. Great when these products actually work. Like I'd said before, I really don't want the polished look. I really thought about rubbing them back like others have said, but time wise and equipment wise (there are no power outlets in the basement for example) mean it's going to be a pain. So, a search of the interweb and on here, ceramic coating is the way forward. Spoke with Zircotec and they have an approximate turnaround time of 12 days, so I'll drop them off next time I'm in the UK. Sorted. One thing that's been on my mind since I bought them are the brake/clutch levers, plus the RS front lines. I had spoken with HEL, but they said they would need the original lines and even then could only copy them.. Odd as I thought they had produced race items in the past. Anyways, Harry at DG sorted me out with some Genuine RS lines. I mocked up the routing with the lever semi attached. Looks like it'll work out just how I wanted it to. Fingers crossed when the new front end is on, it works out just the same. While I was looking at the brake side, I decided to see how the new Brembo RCS would need setting up on the clutch side. I see a problem ahead.... There is a microswitch on the underside of the clutch MC. I know for certain there isn't the same switch option on the new set-up. Does anyone know what it's for and can I do without it? Sometime ago I'd ordered a radiator and oil cooler guard from Cox Racing. It's super light and the guys there are really helpful. Thought as I had some spare time I'd see how it's going to line up against the rad and cooler. Both fit great and the radiator guard looks like it should fit perfectly inside the carbon shroud that's going on. Removed the discs too (those stupid bolts are crap... will replace with something far better). I'll get them set up against the Kompes - should look great I think.
You can replace the clutch switch with a brake banjo switch - does the same thing (tell the bike you've pulled the clutch in!).
I don't think so, at least on the older bikes, the only reason I fitted one to my 749R was its incessant stalling at junctions - the clutch switch allowed me to prod the starter whilst in gear, otherwise I'd be fumbling around for neutral!
Ah, I think you've hit the nail on the head. For the bike to start in gear, it has to know the clutch isn't engaged. Bugger... should I even bother? Think I've only ever stalled it a couple of times.
I did run without it in the beginning, it was only the stalling problem that made me fit it. If your 1198 doesn't have that problem, you probably won't have much need for it.
Standard switches being ditched. Going to install simple controls from Bike Sport Developments. I'll need to modify the OEM switch unit on the clutch side for it's annual inspection, but it should just be a notch out of the housing.
