Both bolts holding the middle section of the v cover are a pain. I’m sure they built the engine completely before dropping it into the frame.
I hoped there was some sort of crow’s foot type thing, that could be coupled with a torque wrench ? Wishful thinking I suppose
I pretty sure i got in with a short crowfoot ring spanner on the torque wrench. As with everything on this stupid model it's a ball ache.
Wouldn’t using a crowfoot adapter affect the torque setting one should apply? It being at an extension as opposed to direct. I have a vague recollection of some formula to be applied but perhaps Im mixing it up with something else.
Yes, if you set it anywhere but at right angles to the torque wrench you have a calculation to do first to get correct setting.
so today after cleaning the bike I had 20 mins and checked the hose on the map sensor under the left side fairing and looked good, presume the other map sensor is buried in between the heads somewhere. I removed both front spark plugs which was a bit crusty on the outside but the electrodes didnt look too bad but now I got the plug no I'll order a set anyway. the front ht lead was full of white thick grease too. plan is to check the other map sensor hose for splits, replace plugs and I'll replace front ht lead and see how it goes. theres also what looks like a black breather hose at the very front on the top of the horizontal head going into a black rectangular cap thats really splitting and looks like its hold together for its life so thats desperate to be replaced!
Probably something like ceramic grease, it helps with removal of the plug caps when the time comes as they’re notorious for sticking. If it’s applied to the ceramic part of the plug prior to pushing the cap on all well and good but if it’s just been shoved up inside the plug hole and then the cap has been pushed onto the plug it comes into contact with the plug electrode and may inhibit conductivity. That’s the hose from the camshaft area breather port to the airbox. Check your map sensor tubes carefully, they have a habit of cracking and perishing with the heat from the engine. I’ve not seen major splits but have seen crazing and several tiny minor cracks around them.
Far from ideal but not terminal, worst case you’ll get a slight oil mist around it should it give way altogether. A quick fix would be to disconnect it from the breather plate’s tube, you should be able to reuse the clip. Get some suitable diameter heat shrink tube, clean up the cracked pipe with IPA (not the beer) slip on the heat shrink, shrink it and then reattach the breather pipe and re secure the clip.
Cheers bud, just ran it up after messing with the plugs and leads, could feel it blowing out the cracked joint so I’ll order a new hose, think they’re only £8-£9 but looks like tank off to get to other end of it. Bike seemed to hold the revs at constant throttle whereas before they was up and down, not saying I’ve fixed the stutter as I haven’t taken it down the rd and I’ve only removed and refitted everything but if it has gone away I’ll know it’s one of the plug leads breaking down although I was grabbing them all over while it was running and didn’t get a shock Looks like il have to remove tank to check the other map sensor hose too so I’ll check that when I replace the breather hose. I’ve got my suspicions it’s more around the front horizontal head of the bike with those plug leads and looking at corrosion on the cam cover etc as rest of the bike upside looks nice clean and no corrosion.
All taped up for now with a few wraps as it was blowing wide open, will do the job until the new hose comes
Unbelievable I built it back up, go to start it and now my fuel gauge has just gone off It pops up with the correct level and miles for a second then starts flashing. I’ve not touched anything to do with that that I know of! Any ideas or have I got the dreaded fuel gauge fault yet it’s never gone wrong until now. Will it come back on riding the bike or filling tank up, like I say when I turn ign on it flashes the correct level and miles to empty for a brief second!
Did you move or disconnect/reconnect anything around the vertical head? The connection for the sensor to the loom is in that vicinity. It would be worth lifting the seat and just checking the connection, pull it apart and give it a clean with some contact cleaner whilst there. It might just be a loose connection - again MelcoDiag will show if there are any stored errors.
