I Once got told that the timming belt on a clio is the same, I did post the gates numbers off my belts on here a while ago.
Clio is the same for some 4valvers (probably most of them) not 2valve - full disclaimer to follow etc : )
Bucci Tecnologia Italiana They appear to be 15, 19 or 24 euros apiece - bargain! Sadly, they don't appear to do 999 belts... However, they do seem to do 916 belts at these prices, the 24 euro ones... Cross reference here: http://ducatilongisland.com/products/catalog/BUCCI.SWF
Just fitted Dayco belts to my SS ie, the second set I've used. Old belts were 3 years old with 5000 miles on them and frankly looked virtually new, and still had good tension on them. Got them via Amazon for just a little change from £50 for the pair, shipped.
I'm trying to fit new belts to my 1994 900SS but theyre impossible to get on without damaging the belts (in my opinion) unless I remove the 'flanges' on the pulley wheels (see pic), does anyone know how to take these off because Ive been told they're a push fit but mine wont budge and I dont want to hack at them unneccessarily. Cheers Pete
You can get your belts on with perseverance but it sounds as though you would be better to remove them (the flanges), they are only spotwelded on. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/1991-900ss-refurb.74200/page-7
Thanks Chris yes I want to remove them but how exactly? For sure I'm not going to take a grinder to the timing wheel to remove any welds - I cant see any spot welds anyway so I assume they're push fittd somehow.
I know it seems crude but if you grip the "shield" or "flange" or whatever the correct term is, securely with a good pair of molegrips, you can flex it up and down until it fractures and then repeat as necessary until you can remove it.
Bloody hell, isnt there a better way without breaking the flange? Seems a bit crude as you said but thanks for the advice. pete
Might heat be the answer or is there something I could accidentally damage ? I think I MAY be able to get the belts over the flanges but only if I remove both the tensioning roller assembly (thats easy) but also the fixed rollers with the 10mm 'flats', they're proving impossible to remove so far. Pete
it's better than grinding, I wish I had one here to look at, maybe they attached them more substantially on some engines than others.
better confirm we are talking about the same thing? - best hold fire while I find a picture. EDIT Sorry, I just realised you had put a picture up earlier, so yes, clamping and flexing is the best as the guard is a lot flimsier than main sprocket body but by all means grind if you feel confident - here's another part-removed one:-
Hi Chris, I simply (!) need to remove this flange marked in red to let the timing belts slip easily onto the curved notches in the wheel. I found the second photo online, it's not from my bike, but it makes me wonder whether the flange is held on by the central bolt ?? (and I dont have the special tool needed for that).
the separate flange in the picture is fitted at the back of the sprocket Pete, we aren't talking about this one are we?
I see what you mean, no it's not the back one it's the one at the front marked in red which I hope to remove, just to allow the belts to be installed without a wrestling match and possibly damaging them.
if you are resigned to grinding anyway, then it wouldn't hurt to give one a flex just to test would it? I think they probably did attach them more securely later on, early ones used to ping off on their own and would be found when taking cover off or investigating additional sounds.
No Im definitely not resigned to grinding, I want to avoid that at all costs. I asked on here because I thought someone might have found a way to remove them without hacking or butchering. I'm not going to jump in until I have a bit more info - its easy to be hasty and regret it later isnt it?
I appreciate your concern but there is no other easy, non-butcher way that I can think of apart from removing and asking someone in a machine shop to "turn" them off..
With the belt adjusters slackened right off, try pulling the belt outwards so you can flip the adjust to the other side of the belt........it might make it easier.....it does on a 750. PS.....the silly nut holds the pulley on, the flange is connected to the pulley as Chris says. I made a couple of silly nut sockets from some old sockets I never used.........hacksaw and a file is all that is needed. I used a socket that was a suitable ID to fit the nut and an OD which would sit inside a large open end spanner, which had two holes drilled in it to match two holes in the pulleys.....it is likely that one pair of the holes in the pulley are threaded M6.
