I was able to change to one tooth less front sprocket on the dvt (and previous monsters) using the method Bradders described. It was fiddly to be sure.
I have been thinking about doing this modification to the front sprocket ... but the more I ride the Multi I seem to be getting quicker each time. The Multi is new this year to me and here in Germany the speed laws are a little different, so I'm finding the motorway cruising with standard gearing great. Perhaps it might be better on shorter local rides with the front sprocket changed...but for now I will wait. First I need to see if the Touratech DriRide comfort seat I have just ordered makes touring more comfortable...then if it is a positive step forward I'll think about the sprocket change.
Actually, and not trying to contradict what you are trying to convey, gearing refers to the ratio between the front and the rear sprocket. Increasing the gearing produces more acceleration. A larger rear sprocket relative to the front increases the gearing ratio.The devil is in the semantics.
Well... Doesn't make what I wrote incorrect. An engine turning at a given speed will produce a higher roadspeed with a larger front sprocket and a smaller rear sprocket. That's what I was getting at. So therefore if you want to maximise acceleration then increase rear sprocket size and decrease front, if you want to maximise top speed then reverse that.
https://www.gearingcommander.com Gearing Explained Drive train and Power train, Gear ratio, Overall ratio Primary drive, Gearbox, Final Drive changes and their consequences Rear wheel Tire Size changes and their consequences Total Gearing Ratio The primary drive, the ratio between the engine (crankshaft) and the clutch or gearbox. The gear box it self, depending on the amount of gears this part has an equal amount of ratio to choose from The Final drive, (or secondary) ratio between the number of teeth on the Rear sprocket and the Front sprocket All these ratio combined results in the Overall Gearing Ratio of the power train: Changing any of these parts or changing the rear wheel tire's dimensions will effect speed and / or torque results. All of these changes can be simulated by using the GC by changing involved gearing fields. To be able to do this correct, all ratio, sizes and RPM's are necessary input. Top of page More info on Tire Circumference Back to Gearing Commander Main page
So why the response suggesting I was a clown? Confused. Although I have just eaten a huge Chinese meal.
Where did I suggest you were a clown? I was more suggesting that anyone who had ever ridden a bicycle with derailleur gears would understand how big / small sprockets work, relative to engine / legs... and you seemed to understand that.
Thanks for all the replies, particularly from those who have tried the 42 tooth. Always interesting to read the I know more than you posts too The new chain and sprockets go on Wednesday when I have the 9000 mile service done. I will get back with my opinion for anyone interested to hear views on the change as I was.
It's less "I know more than you" and more "challenging received wisdom". Sometimes with these bikes there is a consensus that makes sense... at other times you really have to look at the science to see what you're getting and whether it's worth the effort. There are a few things with older Ducatis (gearing, jetting) where decisions made by the factory got through emissions and other regulations, so correcting them ipso facto makes sense. In other cases... snake oil.
Well on Wednesday I will know one way or the other. I believe from my own thoughts and the opinions of those who have tried it that it will be an improvement in the way I am looking for. There will be no science involved, I will either like it, or I won't. The only way for me to be sure is to give it a go.
IME if you do lots of mway at 80 plus riding and rarely around town, STD gearing works fine on a dvt because 6th isn’t just an overdrive like the earlier 1200s. If you do quite a lot a and B road riding and villages in between, or commute, it really helps with the shorter gearing as it’s less gear changes around town and 3rd become a real town gear. If you like wheeling, it also helps
Thanks I will. I will plough along based on what logic tells me should work, along with the opinions of those who have tried it here and elsewhere. All of whom suggest it will be an improvement I avoid motorways most of the time. The way you describe the improvement on B roads etc is what I am looking for. And I probably need an excuse for practicing my wheelie skills!
I did the 42 rear change last year. Overall - slightly better for initial acceleration and round town (although using a DUC EE to open the exhaust valve helped more). Downsides - a fraction more vibration at about 80MPH when cruising on motorways. It's so minor I've sort of forgotten about it now but I noticed it when I first made the change. I would probably make the change again if I was fitting a new chain, but leave it as standard until I needed to. As Steve said CarpiMoto do good deals...
Well I have the 42 tooth rear sprocket fitted and it does exactly what others have suggested it would do, and exactly what I was hoping for. Thanks for all the comments. Great mod
I only want a solid steel sprockets that does not have any rivets coming loose and noisy. I just bought an Esjot solid steel sprocket here for €72 plus €12 for shipping. https://carpimoto.it/en-CA/49483_50...eel-Rear-Sprocket-Ducati-Multistrada-1200.htm
