I believe the torque figures are for dry threads, as if they were lubed a given amount of torque would distort the threads of the nut and bolt more than if they were dry. Ultimately it is of course the friction of the threads rubbing against each other that provides the fixing!
a) It's a very big nut. b) Unlike a double sided swingarm, it's the only fastener holding the wheel on so if it fails, you're fucked! c) I think the fine pitch of the thread allows a high torque - or something. d) 'Elf n safety. Better safe than sorry. The Yanks will sue for billions if they can. There's probably an e) as well but I can't think of it right now.
The manual specifies where grease should be applied, it's not mentioned for the rear wheel nut. Mine was tight enough to destroy an Oberon socket in trying to loosen it, yet once it had moved a couple of millimetres I could spin it off with my fingers. It had been greased when previously fitted. I have no idea why Ducati have specified such a high torque either.
My manual Section 7-2 Refitting Rear Wheel states "Clean the mating surfaces and lubricate the threaded end of the wheel shaft with the recommended grease." The top of the page also says "Draft" so maybe this was changed in the final version.
You are quite correct, so does mine. Yet it doesn't mention greasing it in the list of Torque settings, which is where I had looked.
Well following-on from my earlier update regarding the torque settings on my Multi' and the fact that trying to get the rear wheel off, I managed to totally destroy the Oberon socket, the job is done. I had to resort to a local motorcycle garage who said they had two guys hanging off of a breaker bar and had a hell of a job getting the wheel nut to move, which I am absolutely certain I had tightened up correctly to the required 230NM. Anyway, it's done and a new pair of Michelin Pilot Road 3's later I'm back on the road and what a difference they make when compared to the OEM Scorpions, which yes I do appreciate before anyone tells me, are a completely different type of tyre. Got the Halford's 'professional' 60-300NM torque wrench exchanged for the third and final time, due to the drive shaft twisting out of shape, perhaps as a result of the wheel nut seemingly having 'over-tightened' itself to over the 300NM recommended. Like others here I really don't understand how or why once a wheel nut has been tightened to the correct torque, it seems to alter by itself. Either way, I have bought a new 750mm long breaker bar, 55mm socket, so as and when the rear wheel nut needs to come off again, hopefully I'll be ready. Not for while......... with luck
Glad to hear you have it fixed. Like you I find it hard to understand how these nuts seem to lock up over time. The thread is very fine which I suspect is the problem. Anyway if you have the tools it might be wise to undo / re-torque the nut every couple of months. Ducati manual gives a tolerance of +/- 10% on the torque values, so 210 Nms should be fine. I'm new to the Multistrada so this advice is not from experience but it may help. I have just done 200 miles on PR3s and they do feel good. My bike is barely 2 months old and have already clocked up 1800 miles. I just can stop myself riding it. God its fun.
