I just noticed the oil light goes out b4 I try and start the engine - could this indicate anything ? Used to stay on until the bike starts!
Strange. So it comes on initially then goes off before cranking? That would indicate an electrical problem/ grounding problem. The switch is seemingly closing without any oil pressure.
it wont if you are not getting a spark. the bump star thing is quite important. what you can do is, if you remove all the sparkplugs, lift the rear wheel and spin the wheel whilst the bike is in gear and recheck for a spark while turning it. if it does i've a suggestion to make. meanwhile, you say the pump is priming when you switch on the ignition, is the pump working during cranking? if so that suggests the crank sensor and circuit is fine too.
It's been said earlier in the thread. Sprag. I went through everything you've described. I changed sensors relays spark plugs coils, you name it I changed it. (I had diagnostics showing injector and ignition faullts) Basically the starter circuit was taking that much voltage there wasn't enough for the ECU. Even with a jump start. Push starting yourself will never work as you've found out. Changed my sprag and it was like new again
Thank you all fore the suggestions so far. Pump is working during cranking as it spits out fuel when the spark plug is out from the hole. I really don't think its the Sprag as it doesn't sound like any of the sprag failure videos I watched - and it is not free wheeling. It is cranking quite fast, pushing air out the exhaust and fuel - you can smell it. I had both plugs out - neither spark both get 12V to the tip of the spark plug - as measured with the multimeter. I literally rode it 100 miles 4 weeks ago with no starting issues whatsoever , filled it to the brim with premium and put it in my garage. I don't see how the sprag would just die and not gradually get worse first. The only thing that's new on the dash is that the oil pressure light never comes on before you start the bike. No error codes. It has to be something electric - but what. - also tried the original ECU that came with the bike just for good measure - no difference. It is booked in with a specialist (in 2 weeks) but if anyone has any suggestions I'm very grateful .
sorry, I missed your "no spark" post. You have some progress anyway. This is now the area where you might think of the sprag as said earlier in the thread despite it starting last time - if sprag working inefficiently when churning then it can rob the available current enough to stifle ignition/spark, hence the bumpstart suggestion. I know it sounds unlikely, but as said above, it's worth pursuing to rule it out. Another thing you could try is checking for a spark with both plugs removed to try and confirm sprag* as you might see a spark as a result on churning starter on a lighter load. * also worth trying the turning back wheel idea as already suggested, but needs two people ideally. Bottom line - it doesn't have to be the sprag as you quite rightly said, I think you said you'd checked relevant ignition relays already? plus pump is engaging. Just to confirm - no spark on either cylinder?
No spark on either cylinder, Had both out at the same time and tried still no spark. German Ducati forum suggested it might be the crank position sensor - I took it out and cleaned it - put it back in - still the same. - however it is cranking slower since I put it back in ?! Thing is - no error codes - as soon as I unplugged the crank position sensor it threw up the code. Don't know if it's worth changing the crank position sensor or throw in the towel.
Holy shitballs, Ducati is fully booked to end of July. Local specialist will try and fit me in asap but he is busy as well. Just did a quote for a "non runner" on webuyanybike £5400 is tempting at this stage
maybe time to get a wee bit more in depth. do you have a test light and multimeter? your ignition coils and injectors will get a 12v+ feed when you turn on the ignition. best to use a testlight (not led) with a multimeter if you are. and during cranking that's good. now you want to know if the engine ECU is providing earth pulses to your injectors and coils. you can use these as a noid light. a 501 capless bulb. bend the pins out and push them into an easy to get to coil or injector plug. if should flicker during cranking if it aint. check your ECU earth wire and earth point.
I have thrown in the towel, put it all back together and will let the Ducati Guru fix it and let you all know what the culprit was. It has to have something to do with the oil pressure light not coming on with ignition on - ever since this symptom happened the bike refused to start, - as a last resort I disconnected the oil pressure sensor and the light still did not come on/ nor throw any error codes.
I run my track bike with no oil pressure sensor , just a blanking plug. Doesn’t throw up any errors or affect running.
I was thinking the same thing ..... No spark AND no fuel on the plugs ? That's two faults at the same time , on separate systems ! ..... how likely is that ? I would start by checking the resistance / continuity between the ecu casing and the cylinder head , then do the same for just the ecu ground wire . I once had a wire go bad inside the loom , for no reason that I could understand ..... but it happened .
i don't know just how separate they would be tbh. logic tells me the + supply to the injectors and coils would on the same circuit with one decent sized earth wire and point for the engine ECU, but, i aint no Ducati expert by any measure. i've maybe a wee bit of background knowledge on that period where they shared engine management systems with fiat. i'm thinking the 1098 might just still be in that bracket. but i get what you mean, two separate components/systems will rarely, if ever go down unless they have a common dominator. and yip, i've seen rotted out wires on cars that are weeks old. makes no sense does it.
