1200 DVT Unbalanced Bike?

Sorry, should have been clearer, so without cruise then the engine not under load. so slowly slowing down I guess.

 

I do believe I’ve fixed mine. Since week 2 I’ve had a very slight squeak and rubbing sensation from the front brake, only at the moment of stopping or when pushing it around. My dealer confirmed the discs weren’t warped and there was no symptoms over walking pace. I was convinced it was the right calliper or disc.
After reading up on seized brake disc bobbins, I decided to clean my and ensure they’re moving as they should.
After a little YouTube I found a method to clean and move them at home. 30 min hard work later and I’d found most were very stiff, with a couple almost siezed solid. One on the left disc was seized solid. But soaked in brake cleaner and some perseverance paid off. They’re all free now and the squeak and rub is gone.
As is the slight pull to the left!
I’m not saying this will be the cause for everyone, but it’s definitely cured mine.

 

All - have a read of this link, i swapped by 2016 DVT because it pulled left to much...1200 DVT Wobbles At High Speed And Pulls/veers Left.. Anyone?

 

I'm struggling with how crudded up bobbins would cause this. Yes they can cause the disks to rub on the pads and maybe cause some friction, but if you consider the fact that the wheel is mounted on a axle and fixed at both ends, then a different amount of force applied to one disk compared to another will have no affect. The axles ensures that all forces are combined and spread across the axle evenly. If you removed one brake calliper completely, the bike would not pull to one side. Indeed many bikes have a single disk. So, the bobbins being seized would seem to be a very unlikely root cause .... unless ....

... you have excessive play in your wheel bearings, or the front wheel is mounted incorrectly, or perhaps the pinch bolts have been re-tightened with the wheel out of alignment.

Did you remove your front wheel at any point whilst working on your disk bobbins? It's not uncommon that when the front wheel is removed and refitted that the pinch bolts get tightened up before the wheel has been centred by holding the front brake on whilst tightening the pinch bolts. Many don't seem to realise how this particular wheel mounting mechanism works and just tighten it all in the wrong order.

 

Yup, I'd been saying this for ages. The OE tyres are completely crap for anything other than between riding vertical or 25 degrees of lean (I might be being exaggerating a bit there). Two weeks ago I changed the OE scorpions for a set of Bridgestone T31's on my 1260 and the difference is night and day. The bike steers MUCH quicker and holds it's line MUCH better. The crappy flat profile of the OE tyres just ruin the bike, mask it's true potential, and presents lots of handling artefacts that just wouldn't be there on almost any other sports or sports-touring tyre.

One of my last posts on this thread was ....

I couldn't wait to get shot of them and I'm so glad I did. Just come back from Germany after 1600 miles on new Bridgestones and had a fantastic time that I'm sure the OE tyres would have prevented. They wouldn't have lasted all the way there and back after completing the break-in mileage anyway.

 

Hi, I posted a similar thread. I've owned the bike a year now and I don't think about it anymore. I only notice the un-balance when I remove all pressure from bars. These bike are heavier on the left. It was a psychological niggle that I have now got over. I don't even notice it now.

 

How did you find this out? By how much and at what distance from the CofG?

 

I fixed a spirit level to the luggage rack, stood the bike level and let go. It always fell left.

 

And what was the surface like that the bike was standing on?

 

How do you know the luggage rack is square to the bike ?

 

That's all that did was show you the rack was level, not the bike being plumb vertical.

 

You beat me to the punch as that's exactly what I was heading toward. The fact is that unless you can physically measure the alignment of wheels and frame, along with their alignment in relation to each other, on brand new tyres on proven perfectly level surface, you cannot even begin to get close to determining weight distribution based on the machine's balance alone. There will almost always be a factor that will influence the way it falls, outside of the machines own weight distribution.

I could bore you with the lengths that a particular F1 team goes to in order to determine that the platform that a car sits on when determining weight distribution, is level and free from external influence, but I won't. Largely because I'd probably sued under NDA. Just take it from me that if it's tricky enough to do it with something with 4 wheels, then it's even harder with 2 wheels.

Also, because the physical dimensions of a motorcycle determine that every component is generally installed so close to the C of G that the net affect is often negligible, particularly compared to the weight distribution of a car where installed items can end up a couple of meters away from the C of G and have a marked effect.

 

Smooth painted flat concrete. I tried putting on a bias to the right to varying and visible obvious degrees which still fell left.

 

Sadly my 2017 DVT was stolen. I’ve replaced it with a 2017 DVT S (new unregistered).

My new bike does not pull to the left at all. It feels slightly crisper turning and the bar position feels slightly different.

So whilst I can’t tell you what was wrong with my first bike, it was definitely wrong.

 

Had mine on cruise today, and must have done a few miles unhanded and no problem other than camber (and that was barely noticeable)