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V4 V4s Build - From Start To Finish

Discussion in 'Panigale' started by Topolino, Feb 20, 2020.

  1. Shock length unchanged
    Preload front and back - I will check
    Dynamic mode
    Headstock moves freely. Checked by Moto Rapido
    I'll check the steering damper but steering moves freely.

    As FC said about the tyre profile, I'm wondering if the tyre, though barely used, is past it's best - being that it's five and a half years old

    In any case I will get some more mileage under me and re-appraise things
     
  2. I had a similar situation with my MV F4R when I sold my soul to get one. I had ridden hired ones before and everything was cool and reading reviews said they handled really well. Purchased one and first ride I felt similar to what you’re describing, fine but felt like it resisted. I checked tyre pressures and it was fine, spoke to suspension shop and they set up my shock and forks and it still felt the same. Wa starting to thing but was me and I just needed to learn to ride it. Then went to a MV day and had a go on a RSV4 and fell in love straight away, did everything i wanted and felt so much better. So sold my soul again and got an RSv4 which hi still have.
    However what I wish I had tried back then was rather than spend the money on the forks and shock set up just bought new tyres. As I firmly believe now it was either old tyres or maybe I just didn’t get in with what was fitted..
    Had you ridden a V4 one before?
     
  3. Thanks. Yes I rode a demo bike for a couple of hours, didn't feel the same sensation I do with mine IIRC, but that was over 5 years ago. I will take the bike out again when the weather improves and see how I get on. I'm not shy at leaning the bike over but the feedback from the front end as I begin to tip in feels unnatural and resistive. Other than that the bike feels phenomenal. I don't want to go down the rabbit hole of messing with settings until I rule out whether it's (a) me (b) tyres or (c) something else.
     
  4. Do you have another one you can whip out on same road to directly compare? If someone can lend you one or borrow from your dealer on a demo bike.
     
  5. Thars a possibility of course, but I will venture out again and see how it feels for now. If I still have the sensation then it is perhaps then reasonable to assume something else is going on other than my own feedback.
     
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  6. The thing I have found to affect turn in speed more than anything is geometry - so I would look very closely to check everything that could affect it - just a slight change in ride height front or rear can have startling effects. The major part you have changed in that area is the top yoke on the forks - is it 100% certain that this retains stock geometry? Also the product page for it states that it “IMPROVES THE FRONT FLEXIBILITY REDUCING CHATTERING EFFECT” this flex might slow steering and require a more aggressive geometry to get the best from it.

    The tyres will definitely have hardened a little after sitting for that long. But I wouldn’t necessarily think that would affect speed of turn in - more likely reduced ultimate grip and might take longer to warm up than a brand new tyre.

    Tyre profile might be quite aggressive so would respond better to just dropping the bike in rather than progressively rolling into the turn - maybe after that much time off you are being more tentative?
     
  7. All good advice, thanks. If I am tentative, it's due in part to how the bike feels on corner entry and most likely a large part of it is me. First port of call will be to recheck the tyre pressures, then I will go from there. Hoping for some better weather this weekend, to get out on it again.
     
  8. With all that work on your bike I wouldn't be running on 5 year old tyres even if they have been stored.
    In the scheme of your bike new tyres are cheap and you would then have full confidence that any problems are not down to them
     
  9. I am in two minds as they have not been exposed to UV, excessive heat/cold and or humidity but yes they will have aged for sure. The wife's Monster is being picked up for an MOT, service, belts and a minor oil leak on Thursday by Carl Harrison, so I will have him take a look. As I said first port of call will be to check tyre pressures then suck it and see on the next outing. If it still feels off, by which time I will have had at least 8-10 hours riding it, then I'll have a re-think. I am sure one way or another I will get it sorted.
     
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  10. Finally got around to taking some photos whilst out on a ride recently. As bizarre as it may seem, I have been thinking about the residuals on this bike, given it's age and currently very low mileage and if it would make more sense to change it for a new bike, before the resale value takes a further dive. I am looking at a new MY2024 S and have also (for pure comparison) got a test ride booked on one as well as on a Diavel V4 (just to satisfy my curiosity for a different style of bike, after 24 years of owning nothing but sports orientated models from the brand, apart from one year on a Monster S4RS). Either way I won't be looking to change (if I do) until after WDW, so that any replacement will have the work done to it over the coming Autumn/Winter. If I do end up on another Panigale, I will be transferring all the parts across to the new bike, save for the exhaust which will be sold separately (or will remain on the current bike for the new owner if desired).

    The only parts that will accompany the current bike will be all the Cerakoted parts, such as the frame, swing arm, radiator, oil cooler, clip-ons, handlebars, suspension linkages and shock mounts, footrest hangers, radiator fans bracket etc, the carbon fibre seat unit, carbon winglets, carbon lower fairings and battery cover (these last two being unobtainable any more, now that Peter Lieb has retired) and the custom bodywork and tank, everything else will be returned to standard, including the wheels. The bodywork has also been fitted with a full PPF film kit.

    Not sure what the current bike would be worth without or with the Akra system fitted but figures between 15-17K respectively, have been mooted by a couple of dealers. Naturally I could just sell it as is, but I would unsurprisingly lose way too much on the parts fitted, of which there are a lot, unless I was to receive a sensible offer.

    20240504_153119.jpg 20240504_153401.jpg 20240504_153253.jpg
     
    #530 Topolino, May 8, 2024
    Last edited: May 8, 2024
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  11. Hang on… 5 years to build it and not ride it… and now you’re gonna sell it
     
  12. The original intention (plan) was to complete the build in 4-6 months. Moving house, no garage, storage for 18 months, no accessible driveway once the garage was built, plus heart and spinal surgery extended that out to over 5 years. I have ridden the bike, albeit now only for a couple of hundred miles but I am conscious of the fact that this is a 2018 model and whilst it owes me nothing in terms of paying for it (parts aside), if I do keep it, it won't retain enough residual value at the level I would need, to change to a newer bike, without spending a lot more money than I would like to. Transferring all the parts across would save me a fortune and most save the exhaust are a direct fit. If I keep it another year it would likely lose another 2K in value, if not more. As I said, I am still undecided, but if I make a decision to sell it, then it will be this year not the next. I have always changed bikes every 2-3 years, so this one would be no different, with the exception that life, unfortunately, got in the way of that plan and it is still in my possession after 5 and a half years. I could have sold it at an earlier venture, but I wasn't completed it until early 2023 and I've never sold a bike that wasn't. I may yet decide to go a completely different direction, in which case I will sell all the parts separately. Nothing new for me there, but I will sit on the fence for a little while as to what I end up doing. I've also considered a MY2005/6 999R but finding an exceptional example, is difficult at best and they are commanding high prices now.
     
    #532 Topolino, May 8, 2024
    Last edited: May 8, 2024
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  13. Are that many parts compatible with the newer ones? I always seem to see 18-21 and 22- when it comes to parts on websites ?
     
  14. Yes they are, there are obvious exceptions for parts that were modified on later bikes such as the battery cover, side fairings etc, but for the most part, all those that I would be transferring, will fit on the 2023-2024 models. Ducati have a tendency to run some different part numbers for each model year but many of those are exactly the same, despite the 2018-2021 and 22> differentiation.
     
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  15. Solved! Discovered I'd for some reason had 26psi in my head for the front tyre pressure. No idea where that came from. Set the front to 33psi and the rear to 30. Instant cure for the wayward handling. It's a peach to ride now.
     
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  16. ROFL! You of all people!
     
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  17. Yes I hang my head in shame Razz. In actual fact the ftp was 29 when I checked it, but 4psi extra made a huge difference. Lesson learnt.
     
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  18. That didn’t hang about long!!
    Stunning
     
  19. Yep sold in less than a week. If it's anyone on here, feel free to contact me if you want more info on the bike.
     
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