The only other thing would be to check for pin-out errors on CAN bus connectors but then you are getting into the realms of much deeper diagnostics and as has been suggested, you are better off letting your dealer hook it up to proper test kit at this point, else you could end up doing more damage than good.
Do u know if the switchgear remains live in any capacity when the ignition is off? Just wondering how water could affect it when switched off. I won’t get into the can bus, I don’t want to mess that much but wondered about the switches
If you remove the battery, then no it won't be live or at least you can be assured it won't be. If water has seeped into the housing, regardless of whether the ignition is on or off, it will eventually lead to corrosion and/or connectivity issues. If power remains applied to it with the ignition off, then there is the risk of a short/arcing, but that scenario ought to be mitigated by your fuse box. How problems manifest themselves depends largely on the severity and location of any damage. As I mentioned, buy some dialectric grease and coat all the terminals and any connectors inside with it. Since the front indicators are fed from the instrument panel's integral ECU, and as Nelly pointed out, any issues emanating from there are likely to reside on the circuit board inside or at the point of connection with the loom. You could check the latter for any moisture/water ingress but if the instrument panel is internally compromised, there is not much practically you can do, other than replace it under warranty, assuming a dealer can confirm that is where the problem lies after diagnostic checks.
yeah, my fear is that it’s a dash replacement as that perhaps would tie in with the date and time deciding to go missing perhaps, it may well be a problem that gets worse and worse. I’ll get some grease and check the left switchgear, I’ve been spraying a bit of contact cleaner in there. I even cleaned the connectors on my old optimate 3 yesterday and made sure the pins were tight so that when it’s on trickle charge it’s not getting unusual current etc, even though i believe the optimate is a max of 0.7amp or something silly
The battery condition is often overlooked when self-diagnosing electronic issues, where components require nominal voltages to work. I don't profess to know what those are (Nelly is far better equipped to answer that question than me) but have you tried hooking the bike up to a similarly rated battery, to rule out that option? Just make sure the battery you test with if you can borrow one, is suitable for your bike in terms of voltage/amperage supplied (ie V4S requires a LiPo4 battery rated at 12.8V - 4Ah. It also needs to be charged at a specific rate with a dedicated charger). It is interesting to note you lost date and time, at some point, as that might suggest a loss or an interruption of power to the ECU in the dash for an extended period (unless you disconnected the battery yourself). There is also an earthing point on the loom that you might want to check. It's located on the front of the engine casing behind the radiator, inboard of the frame.
Without necessarily divulging the location of your Bike Trac unit on a public forum, how has it been wired into your electrical system? A lazy approach would be straight to the battery's +/- terminals and piggy backing the switched live wire onto a spare mini fuse blade in the left hand fuse box. Not really ideal and a bit gash frankly. I've seen quite a few installed this way. It should be hard wired into the loom in a much more integral fashion. How and where that is achieved, is not best discussed here.
Agreed, let's keep the detail about how it should be wired in off here, but just to say that I have 3 sets of wires coming off the battery, I have the charger fly lead, I then have two braid covered positives and earth leads. The bike track is installed by the dealer/Ducati as it was bought new with it, and I know where the earth strap is for the 959/V2 engine but it's behind the battery so would need to disconnect it which I haven't done yet. The bike has been on charge since yesterday, the dashboard always shows somewhere between 12v-12.5v so any interruption in power didn't happy when the bike was moved/charged etc, it happened when the bike had been left alone and wasn't acompanied by a BikeTrac low voltage warning, and when turning on showed 12.2V on the dash, so not a low battery issue, more of an open short issue. I'm still stuck on it being a dash issue. I may get the bike out at the weekend and rinse the left hand side around the battery area, then try the ignition, then do the same with the rear end around the BBS, and then spray around the dashboard and see if anything triggers the indicator issue, it will at least give me more info to give to the dealer when I get it there. As discussed I'm ordering some grease for the switchgear etc.
Good luck with your endeavours Phil. It does rather sound as if your dealer will be your best option simply because of their diagnostic testing capabilities. As Nelly said, it might be a deeper-rooted problem within the Can Bus network, which is something that is beyond the scope of most, even with the right equipment. If working through the suggestions you have received from all on here still doesn't shed any light on the problem, then you are best to leave it be, until you can get it to your dealer for further analysis.
agreed, I did the last obvious thing today, took the left hand switch gear apart and it looks fine to my untrained eye, actually I’m impressed how solid it all is..
quick question, as I had similar problem on v4..the left switch wiring is on a small plug that clicks into left switch gear..mine had disconnected and indicators stayed on..see if the wiring loom to left switch gear is connected or loose.
interesting when you say stayed on do you mean just the front left indicator or all 4? And did they just keep flashing as normal or stay lit up? The wiring goes off back behind the dash from the switchgear to join in with the loom so I’ll have to look there when I can get the nose off
If you’ve had a tail tidy installed, check the wiring on that. Also, under the seat is the diagnostic connector, check no water ingress has got in and clean out with suitable spray. Also there is the BBS unit under seat, check connector on that. You’ll also find other connectors under the seat to check.
Long shot, but I had the flashing dash and indicators when the two white bullet type connectors under the seat had furred up. Took them apart, cleaned and greased and its been spot on since. I've an 1199, so don't know necessarily if its the same set up..
i'v seen this problem on a particular fiat model, all sorts going on, wipers switching on and off, indicators flashing ect. water ingress in the reverse sensor node. I don't recall ever seeing an error logged. I read there that there are three controle units on your bike, take them out and see if you can see or hear water sloshing around in them. we just used to dry them out and reroute the screenwash pipe that leaked onto them.
