The Avon wasn't actually squared it was still nicely rounded, I'm just not spreading the wear over enough of the tyre. Got a Dunlop GP racer scrub on there now, sussing out the pressures but first ride out the bike was much more positive tipping in and confidence inspiring further over. Was at 34psi but reckon it'll go lower.
Experiment both ways, I find a front tyre will want to drop in if its even slightly under inflated. The other thing to remember is that every riders ideal pressures will be different. Start at manufacturers recommendation then work from there.
If it was still nicely rounded, you're probably not doing too much wrong. IMHO to hope for even wear over the whole tyre is unrealistic.
i got 6000 road miles out of a pair of Sportsmarts on the 848 but only 3000 from the rear on vfr.... I thought they were a bit steep but compared to your mileage seems I got good value out of them!
Fair enough, I can't really expect to wear out the edges I suppose. From now on I'm going to enter corners 1 gear higher that I usually do, and then short shift up as high a gear as poss asap. It should be impossible to do too much damage to the tyre centre with the revs barely at 3k :Facepalm: Pressures seemed ok at 34 rear, might drop the front a bit and up the rear to 36 to see what happens.
36f and 36-38r works for me but I'm no expert. You might be better sticking to lower gear with higher revs as if you go in higher gear at lower revs you'll be able to tap into more torque when you open the throttle which I guess is what you're aiming to avoid
I'm the same, done around 750 miles on mine since I got it at the end of August and the rear tyre is squaring off badly! The bike has a total of 1550 miles on it but I don't think I'll get more than 2k out of the rear. I'm riding a lot to work, but it is a multi compound tyre so u would hope it's better than a suoercorsa but doesn't seem massively better! I might have to put the road based one on there.... Or try Dunlop sportsmart 2's
I was keeping the revs high before, 7-10k range. Tons of torque, very aggressive and immediate. At lower revs the delivery feels softer, a bit lazier, thats why i think it might help with less wear?
I dunno, think it was Michael Neeves who said it about riding in the wet to avoid breaking traction on corner exit. I suppose it makes sense if your bike makes loads of torque low down in the rev range
This is along the same lines but it's about wet riding and doesn't really apply to OP I guess. And it applies to whacking the throttle open and waiting for revs to catch up not the choice of gear. My error, getting my situations confused. From Visor down (which I know isn't empirical evidence but it makes sense and is most likely old news/ common sense). Applied to dry conditions it'll optimise rear tyre wear? "Throttle control is the most important skill to master. Sorry if we're repeating ourselves here, but once again smoothness is the key. Any sudden application of force will break traction and the throttle is no exception. A big handful will get the rear spinning all too easily in the wet; progressively winding it on will give drive and traction. What you want to be doing is matching engine rpm to throttle opening at all times. By that we mean you should be winding the throttle open progressively. If you stop opening it further you'll stop driving forward; roll it off and you lose drive instantly. Don't crack the throttle two-thirds open at low rpm in a high gear on the exit of a corner and wait for the engine revs to catch up. While many riders err to safety in the wet and go for the low revs/high gear option to avoid wheelspin, it's easy to get lazy with the throttle and open it wider than necessary. Even at low rpm, many sportsbikes have enough torque to spin the wheel if the throttle is opened too far. If the wheel breaks traction, the engine is free to spin up to match the throttle position, which it will do very quickly indeed. If the throttle is open far enough, the engine will keep building revs even as you're rolling it off. At best you're risking a nasty, out-of-control fishtail, possibly into oncoming traffic; at worst, you're heading for a highside. Once the bike is upright it's surprising just how much wet grip can be found on a good road surface. But while it used to be the case that once a bike was going in a straight line you could use as much throttle as you liked, many modern litre and hypersport bikes have more than enough power to spin up in the wet in the lower gears even when bolt upright. It's quite good practice to get the rear spinning up in the wet on straight roads, as it's good to get a feel for it in case the unexpected happens. But cambers and surface irregularities can have the rear wheel slewing sideways and out of control surprisingly quickly, so be careful."
W What they're talking about there is the risk involved if you whack the the throttle open in a high gear on a wet road. If the tyre should start to spin, you'll suddenly find yourself in a nightmare scenario with the engine at high revs and big throttle, so producing double the power it was a moment before and tyre spinning madly. You then back off, the tyre grips again and you high side. That's not going to happen in the dry, unless you open the throttle on a patch of gravel...
Have been riding differently last few times, higher gear lower revs, trying to be smoother. Rear is looking pretty good so far. Am about to make a geometry change which I hope will improve the way the bike feels too.
