I purchased mine with 6900 miles on the clock and I've done over 10k miles on it in a year. I'll have to do the big service this winter and it is an awesome bike to ride. I wouldn't shy away from higher mileage so long as the servicing has been done. When I got line I didn't care about mileage, I was after a 12 month used dealer warranty (which I got and probably saved me thousands in problems in that first year with a new radiator and full engine rebuild and new heads).
I had the 2010 MTS1200S (Ohlins / ABS etc) and then a 2013 Pikes Peak (that's the twin spark engine that was sold right up to 2014). I've not had the latest DVT engined bike, so I can make no compare. The original 2010 bike, when tuned by CJS was amazing as far as power and delivery. Search my name and CJS for details. Then later 2013 PP was no where near as powerful, however it was smoother and felt like it was floating on air. Once I'd bothered to set the pre-load on the front forks correctly it was nearly perfect. Those that don't know or can't be bothered leave it at the 8 stone rider pre-load of near zero, despite most of them weighing it at more than double ( me INCLUDED). Most riders need to wind the front preload to maximum...anyone who waffles about 1/2 and 1/4 turns is dreaming. You will get varying advice, but please look carefully at who is given it to you. Mine is based on riding experience and +40K miles, not "a bloke down the pub once said"...type advice. EDIT: Based on what Paul (@bradders) said, he's absolutely right. If you are a heavy guy or carry a lot of weight when riding the best move is to get the correct springs. I did this on the 2010 MTS1200S, with FTR suspension..went up two spring ranges on the front and back. I loved it. When I sold it to my lighter brother it was way too harsh or skittish, so we had to change it back. You seem like a bright guy, so you should be able to work it out. I never got the chance to get the twin spark tuned by CJS, however Chris admits that he can't get the power gains he used to. I never went to him for power gains, just to get rid of low end surging and roughness. Some bikes were worse than others. After that just enjoy one of the best bikes ever made. I love them so much I own two. MTS1200 PP (Non-DVT). I could easily purchase a DVT, however in my personal opinion I don't like the look and think the current PP is a rip off. My advice may contain nuts.
:Bag: Amen to what the nutty person above just said and yet, I still haven't got the pre-load adjusted, but I will, I will....stop going on AC :Mooning: . I SOOOO remember you telling me and anyone else listening, (or not) about the pre-load stuff outside of Loomies, last time we went out for a group ride, however, I know you are making sense, well some of the time that is :Banghead:........ One thing I slightly dis-agree with, is for me the Ohlins suspension on the earlier MTS was vastly superior from my point of view to the skyhook set-up, which one year on with my PP model, remains uncertain and at times unstable. Also the fueling is changeable, even after the upgrade, on my 15 plate (2014 late) bike, until that is, the full Termi with re-map was done and oh my goodness the bike is so, so unbelievably different, for the better I hasten to add Whatever you choose, the Mutli is a brilliant all-round performer and with the support, interest and good humour from this website and its contributors, you will not go far wrong.
be careful with front preload, as it can make the bike far harsher IME (skyhook) and add vibration. I left mine fairly backed off, it didnt affect the handling too much, and simply added more for trackdays. If you have to add lots, get the springs replaced instead. Preload will not over compensate a weak spring, regardless of what anyone says
A correctly MAPPED (CJS) 2010 engined bike (Performance Airfilter, opened up air box and De'cat exhaust) was far more powerful than the standard twin spark. I wanted to hate the Skyhook as I love the Ohlins. Once set up the Ohlins is superb, however I found the Skyhook just worked out of the box (once the Pre-load is set correctly...I may have mentioned this in passing before)..
Lots of great feedback guys many thanks - so here's another very relevant question as I hunt down my secondhand MTS1200 S : Hold out for one with a full Termi fitted? On my budget I may not be able to stretch to a 2013+ twin spark model so this would presumably deal with any worries about fuelling issues. What say you?
I don't think fuelling is a major issue, yes it could be improved, but it isn't a deal breaker. Also, personally, I don't understand all this Termi stuff, again, yes they look nice but I ride with ear plugs and the standard exhaust works, so why spend a grand on something that does what exactly ? The Multistrada isn't a bike for pottering about town, but get it in it's natural environment and it is fantastic.
Thanks! that's useful. I like your cat, I had one that looked v similar once - called Fruit; he was wonderful, much missed.
The termi is a nice to have. It would be the big Ti one, not the little Carbon job as this would be too loud for the road. It's not to everyones taste. The Leo and the others are just as good, if not better (I've had most options). De'cating and getting rid of the silly exhaust valve solves all of the low down hunting / hesitation once remapped. Just wiring the exhaust valve open would suit 98% of riders. Cost 30 minutes of time and a paper clip. If you find this or any other post useful, it may be worth a thanks, like or similar. It keeps us going knowing that our efforts are appreciated, plus we need to get more points than @Chris
He is a Maine Coon, just diagnosed with diabetes unfortunately, but he is being treated with insulin, to which he is responding, and we are getting him stabilised.
My bike is standard except for a MRA screen, but if there is one mod I would do this would be it. Is simply disconnecting the exhaust valve on it's own such a difference ?
Done Went for a 2012 S version with touring pack. All standard except for some ASV levers. 15k on the clock. Full DSH including it's first desmo service. At £8.5k I had options with less mileage but wanted a bike that had been used not garaged - and it's in beautiful nick. So first impressions? - it's a f****** beast!, just brutal amounts of power and I love it. Found myself in the garage the other day stroking it like some semi-tame caged dragon. It has so much character; the only thing I've had like it was a Moto Guzzi many moons ago which had the same vibe, but needless to say a LOT slower. I would say it's definitely much happier on the open road and really doesn't feel great low speed/in town; I do get the problem others have mentioned of difficulty maintaining a steady, relaxed low speed when needed - and both the people I've had on the back so far have mentioned that it feels snatchy at low speed. The only other thing for me personally is it feels a little too high; I'm not short (5.11) but feel like it wouldn't take much to drop it - might think about a lower seat. Other than that, what can I say? - I'm in love, in fact what am I doing writing this when I could be out on the bike, what was I thinking....... Just before I go, a couple more questions for you guys - (i) is there a 'cure' for the low speed problems without spending an arm and a leg? (I'm now broke) (ii) anyone tried the lower seat? - I wouldn't mind being an inch lower but don't want to trade this for less comfort. Thanks! Oh. P.S what's the story with the back brake? - I hate to sign off with a negative but wtf! you press it and nothing happens - any ideas out there?
I'm glad you got something and yes, they are beasts but handling is up to coping with the power. Low speed just drop a gear a gear or two. I think that's all there is really. I went for the lower seat and the difference was not as big as I hoped. The seat is wide so, although your arse is an inch lower, your legs get pushed further apart when your feet are down so you don't get the full inch, but it does make a little bit of difference and was glad of it a couple of times. I have TCX touring boots and they have really thick soles which also helped. Enjoy.
Follow this thread http://ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/dragon-motorbikes-durham-remap.42004/ or search for CJS remap. Basically the engine map is replaced with one that is less lean and the O2 sensors disconnected which makes it smoother low down and gives more top end. I am currently thinking about this mod but keeping it standard simplifies life. As for the back brake, "They are all like that Sir". The problem is that the brake line runs go up and down and getting the air out of the top of them is not easy, particularly from the ABS pump. Some people have fitted bleed nipples to the banjo connectors to the ABS pump and report a big improvement. A search should get you to the relevant thread.
