Whos Done The Swing Arm Pivot Shaft Lately?

I thought Chiz was supposed to be the guinea piggy on this one :Facepalm:

 

There may have been one or two bad words...

 

My fault I misunderstood.
Luckily I got away with it :/

 

And there was me fully expecting pictures from the shed of Creamy's bike in two large parts and it nearly turned out to be OR's :Hilarious: :Hilarious: :Sorry:

 

Luckily, as the pin was knocked further out, it became tighter rather than looser, which alerted me to the fact it was being twisted, otherwise there might have been two large, separate parts...

 

HEY! I'd have started my own 200 post thread before trying anything like that!

 

Just re-greased my swing arm pivot bolt this morning as the fairings were already off, took no more than 5 minutes, supported by the rear axle stand only, as you can see on the bolt itself, it only had to be tapped out to get it started and then it was wiggled and pulled the rest of the way out by hand.
As you can see straight through to the wall behind.
Yes the chain has seen better days but as it and the sprockets are fine it's staying on for a while longer yet.
@Old rider I thought you might be interested.
Steve

 

:Bag:

 

Indeed.
As Stu said, thing to do with the 999 is to knock it through with an equal size pin

 

Incidentally.
The pivot bolts in my suspension rocker are rather corroded and scruffy, so so have ordered some shiny titanium jobbies from Racebolt.
Any (sensible) suggestions on how to replace them without the suspension collapsing would be gratefully received.

 

Very very quickly

 

As long as you unload the rear end so it is not weight bearing you should be fine. Try doing this on a Panigale without suitable precautions and you will end up in a whole world of pain (££££££) !!

 

Well I just went to do mine and looked in all three socket sets and surprise surprise no 20 mm socket.Did you guys buy one especially for this job?

 

One side is a socket which was in my set and the other is a 14mm hex on mine, I purchased the hex a few years ago when I took the engine out.
Steve

 

Wow how cool is that,I used the product I read somewhere on here,spayed the bolt both ends,left it a night,spun the bolt 180 spayed again,next tap tap tap it out.Question once I get it cleaned up do you guys use copper slip grease or regular grease?

 

Personally, it never even occurred to me to use copper grease. I tend to associate copper grease with non-seize applications, not actual lubrication.

 

Yea mate as old Chizel found out if it gets beyond tap tap bang bang it's gas cut cut.yea nah all good mate any grease and once a year is better than a smidgen 20 years ago is one less worry.

 

Can't help thinking that the correct grease once a year is even better though and I'm not at all sure that copper grease is all that suitable for needle roller bearings.
Although, as you say, infinitely better than no grease at all.
I just used some ordinary all-purpose grease.

 

I do mine every year, as you say some never get touched at all until the engine needs to come out for whatever reason, ordinary everyday grease goes on mine. As far as I am aware the pin doesn't touch the roller bearings, it goes through the brass sleeves which themselves go through the bearings.
Steve