wow, 40years in the trade 8years solid doing diagnostic on fiats, but they never have electrical problems. always happy to be humiliated by a plumber.
Not even that high in the trades chain. He’s a fridge repair man, so just below a washing machine repair man. Clearly money in fridges tho
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10212451669859378 Took some time fathom how to embed a url, though i dont if it will work for you lot..
Being a numpty ive being charging the 749 that also has a lithium battery with a non lithium trickle charger for some years (Opitmax IQ https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Optimax-IQ-Motorbike-Car-12V-Battery-Charger-/350420431601 though it been starting up fine, though reading up its been damaging it overtime i guess... i put it on the lithium battery on multi
Have you got a neutral light? You said you have mechanical neutral, but the light is the important bit. Also try starting with the clutch pulled
First we’ve heard you’re using Lithium. Lithium batteries need to be warmed up with a lighter load prior to starting in cold weather. My money’s still on the terminals though, if you lose all the electrics on pressing the starter button
Neutral light is on, clutch in or out makes no difference Pressing the starter button, we still have power/electrics Cleaned all the terminals, bolts and nuts... Just charging the battery on that charger i mention even its not the correct charger (impatient) i should have put on the OP what information do you require and we wouldn't be 3 pages in lol...
It's not your problem, but it would be worth investing in a set of exact fit starter cables. I'd start by checking the starter relay and fuse..... a £2 lamp and tester screwdriver will do or a multi-meter. You'll need a wiring diagram and an ounce of common sense. All this free advice from a jumped up plumber/washing machine repair man,
You could bring the charged battery in the house to get it nice and warm, then fit and try. Some lithium batteries struggle with the initial starting on Ducati’s ime but once they are warm (normally using a jump starter kit) they are fine for the rest of te day.
It’s worth bearing in mind that just because a fuse is intact, it doesn’t mean it is transmitting power. Blade fuses need to be dead flat to give their full contact area and even light corrosion can cause a big problem, so make sure the fuses are all flat and give them lots of wiggling in the holder to remove residual corrosion. Also, have to agree about replacing the relay(s)
Leaving till the weekend now, as am back at work (12hrs) wont get home till 20:25pm on this rota week... Clean the terminals, charge the battery indoors (with a non lithium trickle charger) & order a proper lithium trickle charger, nothing more to tell...
When you press the starter button, does absolutely nothing happen, no click from the starter solenoid, no clicking from the sprag clutch - as though you hadn't pressed it all??
That does help to narrow it down then. Try wiggling your fuses and soaking your button with WD40, you never know but it does sound as if you may need to take a trip to Halfords for a multimeter and circuit testing probe (looks like a screwdriver with a lead attached) if you don't have them already.
Yep battery normally gives a click but nothing else so it’s the fuse or button or battery connection IME (had this loads in the past on bikes)
I'm coming into this a bit late but hopefully I can help. I presume that at ignition on all the dash lights up as normal? When the starter button is pressed does the dash stay lit as normal? If yes and there is no sound from the solenoid then either it is not being switched by the ECU or is buggered. The solenoid has 2 lightweight wires, a red/black and a blue/black. The red/black should have 12V when the ignition is on. If not check fuse no.4 (10A keysense) in the front fusebox. The blue/black wire gets a ground from the ECU when the starter button is pressed (assuming the bike is in neutral or the clutch lever is in and the sidestand is not down) Check that this goes to ground when the starter button is pressed. The easiest way is with a test lamp. If you get ground but no starter then the solenoid is dead. If not either the safety locks are not working properly (neutral, side stand switch, clutch switch and although the neutral light is on does it say N in the dash) or most likely the starter button contacts in the RH switch are not making a connection. There is a possibility that the ECU is faulty but that is very unlikely.