I've done it with the forks out over winter, it's 110mm and got a tool for it. Was just wondering how you did it without the forks off the bike and vertical in a vice. Sorry for the hijacked post [emoji8]
Small fettles this time... Bleed nipples for both master cylinders in stainless... Old ones were plated and rusty...
Well, the fork seal buddy turned out (for me) to be Witchcraft....the tool just kept getting stuck and when it did go in and round (a little bit at a time) no dirt came out, oil pissed everywhere and, to be honest I reckon its now probably worse than when I started.....fork strip down next week or the week after... Kind of what I expected....
Mmmm strange was really easy with the ohlins on the multi , perhaps Marzzochi tighter fit or summat ...... either that or user error ......hehe
I might have to eat a large slice of humble pie actually.... There was residue when I got to Andy479t's place but it was clean when I got home so... It could be collecting in the dust seal.... See what happens in the next few days... Sent from my SM-P900 using Tapatalk
Did you pop the dust seal up out the way first? I did it with the front wheel in the air so forks extended so hardly any oil came out.
Ok - so bringing this one back up....over my mates 'ouse last night and did a few jobs on the hyper most notably a broken lug on the LH tank side panel which was a jigsaw of glue and paint...and snapped off on the right angle point (those of you with air cooled HM's that have removed that panel know the one I mean....so, went over mates house and he'd bought this... HOT STAPLER PLASTIC REPAIR KIT by BERGEN TOOLS Thermo Welder Bumper Trim Bond | eBay Bit of a leap of faith...I went over thinking "yeah - ill need a new sidepanel by the end of the night, and ill have to get it painted...." 2 staples in and it was solid...absolutely amazing....you know when you've hit mid life when your giggling like a schoolgirl when something actually works.... To secure the rest of the lug he used about 10 or so staples around it and then finished it off with cut pieces of tie wrap melted on to the back of it using a soldering iron...id say now its more solid that it was at production...so, we strengthened the other side as well....nothing can be seen from the bodywork side of the panel....stunned to say the least. I should have taken some shots of the process but didn't....
How i How easy is it to remove the tank as ive got to do the same as i need to fit a Corse Dynamics induction kit ... the air box is not used just 2 big 100mm bell mouths and 2 big K&N filters .... this = plenty of noise ;-)
That's the job ive just done recently - removing that tank isn't that hard - just time consuming.... 1. All the panelling off round the tank 2. Disconnect as many wires at the rear of the tank (less clutter to hold out of the way.) 3. Remove the battery. 4. disconnect fuel pump underneath by the rear shock. (disconnect both the pipes and unplug the fuel pump wiring up above. 5. Remove the 2 front tank bolts (the rubber bungs) on each side. 6. On the left hand side midway by the rear throttle body unbolt the fuel lines from the bottom of the tank. 7. At the rear underneath on the right hand side theres one bolt that pins the tank to the rear...remove that. At this point, lift the front of the tank up, not the rear at this point. Move it diagonally upwards and forwards. Try to hold the rear wiring out of the way and once it clears the wiring at the back I tend to swing the tank round to the left, then holding the rear with your other hand and lift it clean from the bike. Depending on what came with your kit you have may have to be "inventive" with remounting the front oil cooler and both the coils.... Let me know if you need more help.
Just done an early morning run to work this morning on it and id say its probably now running the best it ever has. Clutch is now a. not slipping and b. greasy smooth on the pull away. QS is working perfectly (the change-ups are nice and smooth) I may try the advanced settings where I can select and individual shift time and rev shift point...not sure as it is working brilliantly. Next job is to sort out the led indicators and getting them flashing correctly ie not fast as they currently are.
Heel plates arrived. Been meaning to get some for ages to stop my right heel melting against the pipe...
Its all documented here... http://ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/healtech-qs-fitting.45632/ In summary - assuming you ignore the engine cut test plus the 2 weeks of troubleshooting. Mine took me about 3 hours or so but that was at a steady/slow pace and also running the loom in and tie wrapping stuff along the way, mixed in with tea and biscuit breaks...the hardest part (if you can call it that) is stripping the bike - fitting the healtech is easy....plug and play. If you need a hand just let me know....i could pretty well talk you through it...
Continuing the replacement of fixings got these from Podium Racing over in the states....the first thing ever to turn up where ive not been raped by the tax man... Titanium rear wheel nuts and a titanium stand bolt. Not for the lightness but just because theyre hardwearing and wont rust. The stand bolt is pretty worse for wear. Going to order the brake and gear change bolts next month along with the front axle nut.
Well, as nice and shiny as the new nuts are....ive got no sockets to fit them....the 46mm I had for the original wheel side didn't feed the new one so have to find a slightly larger one....always the way....on the plus side I added the additional resistors in to slow down the flashing indicators.... Another job out of the way...which leads me to now replace the rear indicators....(cheap shitty jobbies) with some decent rizoma ones or something from motogadget....
